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An oil query!


Matthew Storrs
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At this time of year i tend to change all the oils in various bits of machinery, Usually I use fairly decent stuff in the chipper and digger, but im thinking of buying a big drum of super U tractor oil this year 15w 30, Not to be a cheapskate (well maybe a little) but if tractors do mega hours and mega work on this stuff why would it be any different for a chipper. What do you guys use quality (or expensive) or quantity?:blushing:

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Personally I'd be inclined to use a branded (castrol,total,shell,etc) semi synthetic 10w-40 for all the engines your using.it's not that expensive. Problem with using 15-30 universal is it offers less protection across the temperature range ie to thick when cold and to thin when hot. The landrover in particular would suffer due to the turbo lacking sufficient lubrication when required.

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The use of universal oil in tractors now is becoming rare. It's still used in the older machines due to the fact it can be used in both the engine and transmission/hydraulics,making it convenient. Most of the earlier machines run simple hydraulic systems and external brakes. Due to the speed, size and complexity of modern day machinery universal oil provides insufficient protection for brakes,pumps etc. Modern Synthetic oil contains cleaning adatives which will "wash"old engines causing them to burn oil due to their greater tolerances. Modern engines require this to extend the service life of internal componets. Due to old engines burning oil to an extent they always require topping up,this constant addition of fresh oil provided extra protection between service intervals. I'l stop waffling now. :D

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Personally I'd be inclined to use a branded (castrol,total,shell,etc) semi synthetic 10w-40 for all the engines your using.it's not that expensive. Problem with using 15-30 universal is it offers less protection across the temperature range ie to thick when cold and to thin when hot. The landrover in particular would suffer due to the turbo lacking sufficient lubrication when required.

 

NO! Don't go down the semi synthetic route. Joe public falls for marketing hype and thinks they're getting a better product. a) pure mineral basestocks and dino cracked so-called synthetic basestocks don't work well together. b) They have different thermal, viscosity and degradation characteristics. SS oils are the biggest lube trick since oil additives. :thumbdown: A pure mineral basestock with decent additive package is better.

 

I agree that 15-30 might not be ideal (but one firms multigrade will be very different to anothers of the same grade...); 15W40 would be better; thin oils were brought in to increase mpg. :lol: yeah fine for the first 1000 miles and then what? The polymerics thicken up anyway when oxidised.

 

The use of universal oil in tractors now is becoming rare. It's still used in the older machines due to the fact it can be used in both the engine and transmission/hydraulics,making it convenient. Most of the earlier machines run simple hydraulic systems and external brakes. Due to the speed, size and complexity of modern day machinery universal oil provides insufficient protection for brakes,pumps etc. Modern Synthetic oil contains cleaning adatives which will "wash"old engines causing them to burn oil due to their greater tolerances. Modern engines require this to extend the service life of internal componets. Due to old engines burning oil to an extent they always require topping up,this constant addition of fresh oil provided extra protection between service intervals. I'l stop waffling now. :D

 

Oh no, yawn... "modern synthetic oil" !!! Well since there are 5 groups of synthetic basestock, 3 of which are dino cracked anyway leaving PAO and the best which is Polyol-ester, which modern synth would that be???!!!

 

The latter won't "wash" based on it being synthetic, rather the detergent in the additive pack will or won't. Very high end synths have low detergents anyway as they don't need them, thus also being more seal compatible.

 

Can't remember what Landy this thread refers to but for cost effectiveness go with Texaco URSA SHPD 15W40 which is a mineral base with high end additive package. Base = good running temperature and additives = good durability in this case. Circa £40 / 20L from OJ Williams...

 

I've said this a million times before on this site but no-one listens! Spent 20 years in the oil business but what do I know :001_rolleyes:

Edited by TimberCutterDartmoor
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penny wise pound foolish .go for a good quality mineral 15w40

we have had cummins kta38 engines on test on some fancy new oil it was a total ####up cost a fortune already had 2 engine failures at £40k each.

buy decent filters as well and change them regular you should go far wrong doin that

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I'd never put anything in our tractors that doesn't come from the new holland dealership or filters for that matter. Simply because out of all the costs its tiny and i don't want to wonder when it breaks down or blows up wether it was the cheap oil and filters i put on!!

 

Probably costs me £700 to service our big tractors 2 or 3 times a year (now on 600hr service intervals) but compared to the 250litre's of diesel a day it burns its a tiny cost that can cause many problems in my eyes and ultimately its not a cheap tractor to fix or be without!

 

Fit the best and when it breaksdown you know u've done ur best to avoid it!:biggrin:

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