ms250 advice please

[pgkevet]

Both tanks use up together on this one even when it got smokey...but yeah would be happier if it had an oil increaser...

[littlerob]

your oil feed hole on your bar get a drill bit and make is slightly bigger so more oil go's in the oir runner on the bar as some saws pumps the oil and only half go's into the oil feed hole a old guy that i know who sold fier would told me that trick

[Daniël Bos]

The problem is with your bar and chain most likely.

MS250 may not be the best saw, but it should make no difference at all as long as it pulls the chan around.

Check the chain and bar combo, the people at FR Jones are very helpfull and skiled, but everyone can make mistakes (I've had an 18" chain to go with a 15" bar from them before) it's in the nature of working with humans.

 

You mentioned it gets harder to move the chain when it's tensioned, but can you still move it fairly easily by hand?

 

When you let the saw "find it's own way through the wood" does it cut straight or curve a little to one side or the other?

 

When you are cross cutting even huge bundles of smaller stuff, the chain has a considerable amount of air-cooling, not so when cutting large logs.

[pgkevet]

I'll double-check (well actually about quadruple check) everything again bearing everyone's suggestions in mind.. and then probably stick the brand new 18in bar and chain on to see if that makes a difference.

 

You're right that is wasn't getting any air cooling going down through those thick dry ash logs..

 

If I have to upgrade any recommendations? I've got a couple of windblown old trees to clear in the spring.....

[Justme]

Are you over tightening the chain?

[Dax]

Has the bar been pinched at some point, particularly round the nose.

[pgkevet]

I had another mess about with the saw today..

There's no sign fof any snagging of chain the the bar groove.

Without doubt if i tighten down the 2 cover screws then the chain gets harder to turn around the bar even with the tension quite loose.

I cut a stack of logs with it and it got really hot so i decided to fit the brand new 18" bar and chain I bought with it and never used.

With that when i snug down the cover nuts it binds the chain completely even with loose-ish tension that i could pull the chain clear of the groove with 2 fingers but for the life of me I can't see any wear on the inside of the cover or the nylon blocks that could explain it dogging down beyond design. I didn't fancy even trying it like that so unless someone has an inspiration of what I'm missing I'll have to run it to a local dealership and let them take a look.

Confused <sigh>...hopefully something stupid I'm missing..

 

edit... and yes i did check the numbers on the bar and chain matched up

[pgkevet]

Ho Hum..

 

I nipped to the local stihl dealership..nice folk..they agreed it was binding, took bar and chain off, couldn't see anything wrong, put it back on..ran it up, chopped some wood and it all worked flawlessly. They were patient enough to check the other bar and chains.. put them on, run it up.. flawlessly.

 

Go figure..perhaps being bounced in my car for the 12 miles?...

[spudulike]

Ho Hum..

 

I nipped to the local stihl dealership..nice folk..they agreed it was binding, took bar and chain off, couldn't see anything wrong, put it back on..ran it up, chopped some wood and it all worked flawlessly. They were patient enough to check the other bar and chains.. put them on, run it up.. flawlessly.

 

Go figure..perhaps being bounced in my car for the 12 miles?...

 

IMO, something isn't right - it sounds a little like the chain is over tensioning on doing the bar nuts up - this is sometimes possible if the tensioner has a conical end or the bar studs have flanges on them.

 

To tighten a chain properly in MY house - put the bar and chain on the saw so that the tensioner is located through the bar and the bar is sitting up against the flat of the bar mount on the engine, place the clutch cover on the saw, put the nuts on finger tight and nip them up but ensure the bar can still move up and down, chock a piece of wood under the front tip of the bar and lift the chain off the top of the bar - if you can do this greater than around 8-10mm then tighten the tensioner and do the test again - repeat until you can only pull the chain up around 10mm and then pull the chain up whilst doing up the nuts with a decent wrench. Take the lump of wood out and then make sure the chain isnt hanging off the bar and that you can turn it freely around the bar - if you grab it with a piece of cloth and yank it forward, it should keep turning for a few inches if right.

 

Large and small bars are slightly different due to larger chains heating and contracting so need to be a little looser, many will have their own methods but this is what I use and it works for me.

 

Make any sense?

[pgkevet]

I did take the opportunity to get the chap to explain and show how he puts a bar and chain on...