Igland DD winch overhaul

[Charlieh]

Has anyone overhauled an igland winch before, I need to take the drums off to get at the control levers which have been beaten so badly they want replacing, whilst im at it im going to do gearbox oils etc on it. Is removing the drums as simple as it looks or is there anything i need to be aware off?

 

Also are Jas Wilsons the only place that stock igland parts or are there other stockists as they are the only ones that come up on google, if anyone knows of any forestry suppliers that may have bits floating about please feel free to let me know

 

Oh and if anyone has a manual for an older igland dd winch that they wouldnt mind parting with I would greatly appreciate it Im not sure of the model, going to ring Wilsons on Thursday to find out if they can tell me from the numbers stamped on the drum casing, and see if they can provide me with and exploded parts diagram (which is what the winch kind of looks like currently )

[openspaceman]

Which model?

 

I've changed clutches on 3000/2 and 4000/2 and I think I have a grubby manual for the 4000/2.

 

I took it out of retirement on Sunday for a play, no end of fun but got severely puffed pulling out the wire.

 

AJH

[luftwaffe]

Hi, undo the circlips on the end of the shaft then get the sledgehammer out and hit the drums off in various places evenly, they can be very tight to come off so just be ready for alot of hammering, when putting it back notice there are 3 dowels on the inside of the drum which fit in slots which look the same distance apart but they are a few mill out, two 29 mill apart and one is 31 mill apart, all pretty basic really, i get all my clutches and brakes relined in SAFTEC IN TELFORD, google it, it is there, they also do a postage system. apart from that the barings will probably need replacing, good luck

[Charlieh]

Hi,

 

its a 3000/2 (now i have found the id plate on it! its a james jones badged up one)

 

I am no nearer getting it working as wilsons keep taking my number and not calling back for the last 2weeks, Its got some serious wire on it, i think its on 10mm. It looks fairly easy to work on, its just the levers that need replacing and it would be handy to have half an idea what im trying to do, save stripping it down if its not nessicary

[Charlieh]

Hi, undo the circlips on the end of the shaft then get the sledgehammer out and hit the drums off in various places evenly, they can be very tight to come off so just be ready for alot of hammering, when putting it back notice there are 3 dowels on the inside of the drum which fit in slots which look the same distance apart but they are a few mill out, two 29 mill apart and one is 31 mill apart, all pretty basic really, i get all my clutches and brakes relined in SAFTEC IN TELFORD, google it, it is there, they also do a postage system. apart from that the barings will probably need replacing, good luck

 

Cheers for that, thats really handy as I drive through telford about once a fortnight anyway

[Big Bolt]

I have found wilsons bad for the far away small guy no interest .

[openspaceman]

Hi,

 

its a 3000/2 (now i have found the id plate on it! its a james jones badged up one)

 

I am no nearer getting it working as wilsons keep taking my number and not calling back for the last 2weeks, Its got some serious wire on it, i think its on 10mm. It looks fairly easy to work on, its just the levers that need replacing and it would be handy to have half an idea what im trying to do, save stripping it down if its not nessicary

 

The 3000/2 has castellated ring nuts on the outside of the drums. The main thing to be wary of is any pick up or rust on the shaft, clean it up before pulling the drums. You can normally start them sliding by using the clutch lever. pulling it to engage the plate to begin pushing the drum off. Then you can push some steel plates behind the lever and do the same again before resorting to the hammer. BTW if you do use the hammer wear ear defenders.

 

I'd try CeeGee in Builth Wells for parts if they are still running.

 

I've a feeling it will be worth refurbishing the existing levers as prices were astronomic even 15 years ago.

 

As to wire rope The trouble with the thinner diameters is the build is all small wires. The 11mm and up use a similar 6/19 build but the outer ring of the 19 is 9 fatter wires over 9 thinner which stands more wear than if the 19 are all the same size. Avoid Langs lay which is used on some industrial lifting gear.

 

The other poster's advice about the clutches is good but I thing refers to the worm drive winches, 4000 and above. When replacing the clutches I've found it easier to cant the tractor over slightly to keep the plate in place on its pins, though my memory is such I'm probably confusing both types of winch. The 3000 is a much poorer build.

 

AJH

[luftwaffe]

Yeah they were astronomical, if memory serves £250 each for the leavers 10 years ago, cee gee in builth have packed up a long time ago.

[Charlieh]

Right started on this now finally, the clutchs are stuck on and the clutch levers arent attached to the clutches, so I can see im going to have some fun and games with this, any suggestions for getting the drums off?