First go with Alaskan

[Robert Raven]

Hi everyone, great site, I've done a lot of browsing before investing in some equipment. Thanks to Rob D for all his help and advice so far. I thought I'd put up some pictures of my first job.

 

I am using a Stihl 048 with a 28" bar and a ripping chain, on a 36" Alaskan (in case I get a bigger saw in the future). This setup gives about 22" overall cutting capacity, which I think is plenty for this saw. I also ordered the mini mill, which is absolutely necessary if you want to tackle big logs with a small set up like mine.

 

I took six 20"x 1 1/4"slabs off before it got dark today, they look lovely. This log is 9' long and was approx 30" diameter, and fell down some 20 years ago, has been dry stored for 10 years. As this was my first go I don't have much to compare it to but it seemed pretty hard to me. Do logs get harder as they age? Do older logs require less seasoning once cut? I guess I ought to get a moisture meter, any advice there? Also what do most of you do for sharpening? I had to sharpen pretty frequently, the log was gritty from storage. There was even gravel stuck in some of the cracks, I gave it a pretty thorough scrub and check over before starting.

 

Thanks everyone,

 

Rob

[Rob D]

Thanks for posting Rob although after looking at those pics may need some physio on my neck ho ho!

 

 

That does look like a dry log and it looks hard. The grit will not have helped ref chain sharpness but a great example of how you can mill a larger log with a combo of alaskan and mini mill.

[aswales]

Hi Rob,

An old log that has been felled for 20 years and dry stored for 10 is likely to have dried out to a stable moisture level and become seasoned with less further seasoning necessary when it is split into planks. Timber in large section doesn't need to be cut up to season, it just takes longer for the moisture to come out in big sections than for thin planked timber. As the timber dries out it does harden and would dull the cutting edges on your chain more quickly than green timber. Also get lots of chain and guide bar wear due to dirt if grit is present. Would normally sharpen with a hand file, but if its bad wear then chain grinder. Moisture meters are readily available, one with two little pins that press into timber work well. Try looking at logosol for chain sharpening and moisture meter stuff. There is some good info on their site.

 

AS

[TrollSpiel]

Rob,

 

For sharpening - if you are using the granberg chain - I'd definitely be talking to robD about getting yourself a 12v sharpener. The scoring cutters will murder a new file in a few strokes; something I recently complained hugely about ;-) but I wouldn't go back to hand filing big or granberg chains.

 

I cut a fair bit of old wood too - and I never go cutting without a small axe, chisel, brush etc to clean up that old timber of grit & stones etc. sometimes you'll find pockets of dirt and all sorts when cutting boards ( from old dead branch nodes, bark inclusions etc ) and I dig / brush them out - far less work than regrinding chain on a 48/36" bar!

 

only other thing i can say, from personal experience, is start with a good first cut - a warpy / bendy guide will give you warpy / bendy boards - I use an Alu ladder with nut adjustable 12mm bolts - tips ground to a point. And I see-saw the alaskan when getting to the ends of the boards, keeping as much of the mill on the timber as possible - but then, an 880/48 is a heavy unit to be using.... I know i cut some truly awful boards at my first go

[Robert Raven]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm using the Stihl ripping chain which seems ok to hand sharpen so I guess I'll persevere, at least until I get fed up (or someone gets me the grinder for Xmas!).

 

I like the adjustable bolts idea, I will incorporate that. My ladder wanted to sag, I remedied it with wedges but they moved with the vibration and had to be screwed down, bolts sounds a lot easier.

 

Will order moisture meter, very excited at the chance that the timber might be ready to use immediately!

[Robert Raven]

Ah just a quick one- I just realised that the files I got with the ripping chain are 7/32, and the file holder I've been using says 3/16. Will this make any difference? Do I need exactly the right holder to match the files, and can anyone explain what the difference is? I'm a little ignorant of chain geometry. I have obviously been ignoring the 35 degree mark on the holder and filing at 10 degrees to match the angle of the cutter relative to the bar, and holding the file parallel to the floor. If that makes sense.

 

Thanks all,

 

Rob

[MattyF]

No just hold the file tighter!! Can't be a bad thing.

[MattyF]

Unless your talking about a file guide??

[Robert Raven]

Yes it's a file holder/guide.

[Pat Ferrett]

I hope this works