Clutch removal tool?

[andy_mac]

anyone aware of a source of clutch removal tools for taking off husqvarna clutch weights. I've seen a few homemade ones but other than that its flat screwdriver and a hammer job.

 

Im clumsy as owt so can see myself knackering the clutch drum through heavy handedness

 

thanks

again

[MattyF]

I ordered mine through local dealer ... Never used it though !! When I really needed one I made it up from an old combi spanner and dremmel..

[spudulike]

I ordered mine through local dealer ... Never used it though !! When I really needed one I made it up from an old combi spanner and dremmel..

 

There's me thinking you used harsh language:001_rolleyes:

[bob]

got mine from frjones but quite simple to make

but time is money

[blazer]

There's me thinking you used harsh language:001_rolleyes:

 

I find a few choice words work better than WD40:lol:

 

I use the rope down the plug hole technique.

[spudulike]

I find a few choice words work better than WD40:lol:

 

I use the rope down the plug hole technique.

 

The Stihl piston stop - the plastic double ended one is a nifty tool, rope is a good way if the clutch is seized on solid as it spreads the load on the crown of the piston, never use a solid stop on an angled spark plug hole, they are designed for plug holes directly above the centre of the piston - once saw a piston fractured in this way.

 

Getting the clutch off can be an interesting experience depending which type it is - a standard socket, long reach socket, a modified socket, a modified piece of steel tube, an old screwdriver and mallet have all been used in the past - just don't over force any saw with a small crank diameter - you can break them off.

[blazer]

Good point about piston damage Spud, the force on the piston increases the higher the piston is in the cylinder for the same crank torque ( I won't go into the phsyics just trust me) so the more rope down the hole the better if its hard to undo the nut, (always turn it the same way it goes around when running).

 

One of my mates suggested using rope down plug holes say 30 yrs ago to change valve springs & oil seals on Cortinas without taking the head off, when the engine caught a nasty oily cough:sneaky2:

 

I had my doubts if it would come out again but it did everytime. I used this technique recently to undo the crank sprocket on my Suzuki Eiger quad as it auto clutch - really hard on ended up using a inpact socket & a lump hammer on the old socket bar to put in a shock load ( bit worried but it was the only way to undo an over tightened nut to access the auto clutch)

 

I use either a spare started cord or 6mm rope:thumbup1:

 

Have a good weekend

[slack ma girdle]

I find a few choice words work better than WD40:lol:

 

I use the rope down the plug hole technique.

 

I have only used this method once ,and the rope fiber got down the side of the piston and jammed the piston. Needless to say i have not used it since. Metal piston stop is what i have used since.

[spudulike]

I have only used this method once ,and the rope fiber got down the side of the piston and jammed the piston. Needless to say i have not used it since. Metal piston stop is what i have used since.

 

I always get the piston past the exhaust port before filling the cylinder with rope - cuts down the chance of this and the 3 thou piston to cylinder gap isn't enough to allow rope to enter!

 

Here is one damn good reason not to use metal piston stops, especially when the plug enters the side of the combustion chamber as on most chainsaws.

 

The Husky 262XP came to me with 120PSI compression - damage to the top of the piston and a crack right through the crown:thumbdown:

 

Rope is a good option - the plastic Stihl ones are pretty good IMO

[blazer]

From your picture Spud I wondered if the guy who put the hole in the piston didn't realize it was a 'left hand thread'.

 

It can be a bit confusing, as far as I'm aware clutch threads on saws are left handed, the problem on many motor bikes with a nut over a spline or keyed shaft they will be right handed. I think I may have gone the wrong way for starters with my Quad, like saws they have auto clutches, so you can't jam the drive so it's rope down the plug hole ( being a bit carfull with the valves)

 

I use a lenght of old 6 mm climbing rope, with a spanner up on TDC and wind back say 30 degrees before putting the rope in saves jamming the exhast - hopefully:blushing: