What's on your bench today?

[GardenKit]

I had a 362 in yesterday with exactly the same problem, but I will do this one using the traditional helicoil and without removing the cylinder.

Works for me:biggrin:

 

There are times I wish I had not posted some comments, and this was one such post:blushing:

 

Although helicoils have always worked for me, on this occasion the damaged hole had no thread left, and seemed to be angled somehow. The result is that the chaser did not follow and the new thread was incomplete in places so the helicoil wire did not fit well. Epic fail.

 

So after some research and good advice from Spud, I sourced these oversized carbon steel inserts. The first step in the ludicrously simple fitting process is to enlarge the hole to the correct size to take the tap. I achieved this with 2 adjustable reamers, working slowly out.

Next stage is to tap the hole, keeping the tap square, then simply screw in the insert using a plug as a driver. The insert is pre-loaded with a thread lock chemical. Then just let it cure and reassemble. Simples.

 

These oversize inserts are only for these rare jobs, normally a helicoil or solid insert will suffice.

 

I have decided to now go along the solid insert route rather than the coils and have ordered up a set. I will post up a pic when it arrives.

 

 

 

 

[spudulike]

Yeah I get that Mate ! The saw already had a muffler mod, just thinking of smoothing off the casting lines. Can you just drop out the gasket and use liquid or is that asking for trouble with out getting tech and measuring the squish etc.

 

You must measure the squish, usually done by using a piece of soft solder slid in through the plug hole and positioned to the front of the squish band and then just pull the saw over and then measure the flattened solder with verniers!

[spudulike]

There are times I wish I had not posted some comments, and this was one such post:blushing:

 

Although helicoils have always worked for me, on this occasion the damaged hole had no thread left, and seemed to be angled somehow. The result is that the chaser did not follow and the new thread was incomplete in places so the helicoil wire did not fit well. Epic fail.

 

So after some research and good advice from Spud, I sourced these oversized carbon steel inserts. The first step in the ludicrously simple fitting process is to enlarge the hole to the correct size to take the tap. I achieved this with 2 adjustable reamers, working slowly out.

Next stage is to tap the hole, keeping the tap square, then simply screw in the insert using a plug as a driver. The insert is pre-loaded with a thread lock chemical. Then just let it cure and reassemble. Simples.

 

These oversize inserts are only for these rare jobs, normally a helicoil or solid insert will suffice.

 

I have decided to now go along the solid insert route rather than the coils and have ordered up a set. I will post up a pic when it arrives.

[ATTACH]194733[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]194734[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]194735[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]194736[/ATTACH]

A

[ATTACH]194737[/ATTACH]

 

Hope it works out Barrie, personally I would still use that thread lock we were talking sbout as it is damn good but depends how tight the receiving thread was!

[GardenKit]

Hope it works out Barrie, personally I would still use that thread lock we were talking sbout as it is damn good but depends how tight the receiving thread was!

To be quite honest Steve the thought had crossed my mind, and the plan is to try to test the insert before reassembly, If it comes out easily I may will 'belt and braces' it.

 

I always feel a bit guilty dong this though as I like to trust the original design, and have an aversion to using adhesives and sealers where not required.

[GardenKit]

Haha, writing the last post prompted me to go and test it, and the flaming thing did indeed come out too easily!

 

Now Loctited in!!

[Sawchip]

 

Hope the images have posted as first time iv tried

Waiting for the Oregon power mate iv had to order from the US as iv had no luck here. The oil pump drive is used on few of the 200 saws of which the 42 special is one. Its only driven when the clutch is engaged but not in the way most are hence the difficult to get rim sprocket drive..EM original discontinued so i believe.

[GardenKit]

Its a good job that I have a considerable arsenal of tools, as yesterdays 346 clutch removal almost beat me. It was by far the tightest I have ever come across.

 

First step, hammer and punch. Short, sharp shock. When you get the knack this usually works.

But it did not.

 

Second step, two pin wrench, with short,sharp shock.

No go.

 

Third step, remove plug, insert plastic stop, use effort on 2 pin wrench (including a pipe extension. Could not apply the force well enough, the saw kept sliding around.

 

Fourth step. Grind an impact socket and use the knuckle bar. This time applied so much effort I felt the string compressing, was worried about pressure points on piston crown.

No go.

 

Fifth step, remove exhaust, insert 6mm piece of rubber about the size of the piston, try the bar again, with a 2ft pipe extension. Began to worry about the 'give point' of the con rod.

No go.

 

Sixth and final attempt. 1/2 impact gun with the recently made socket, and the rubber piston stop in place. After around 30 seconds of rattling it gave.

 

Another 30 minutes of my life lost!

[spudulike]

Its a good job that I have a considerable arsenal of tools, as yesterdays 346 clutch removal almost beat me. It was by far the tightest I have ever come across.

 

First step, hammer and punch. Short, sharp shock. When you get the knack this usually works.

But it did not.

 

Second step, two pin wrench, with short,sharp shock.

No go.

 

Third step, remove plug, insert plastic stop, use effort on 2 pin wrench (including a pipe extension. Could not apply the force well enough, the saw kept sliding around.

 

Fourth step. Grind an impact socket and use the knuckle bar. This time applied so much effort I felt the string compressing, was worried about pressure points on piston crown.

No go.

 

Fifth step, remove exhaust, insert 6mm piece of rubber about the size of the piston, try the bar again, with a 2ft pipe extension. Began to worry about the 'give point' of the con rod.

No go.

 

Sixth and final attempt. 1/2 impact gun with the recently made socket, and the rubber piston stop in place. After around 30 seconds of rattling it gave.

 

Another 30 minutes of my life lost!

[ATTACH]194800[/ATTACH]

 

Think you should get down to the gym Barrie:lol: I usually find 038s are the worst!

[Sawchip]

Its a good job that I have a considerable arsenal of tools, as yesterdays 346 clutch removal almost beat me. It was by far the tightest I have ever come across.

 

First step, hammer and punch. Short, sharp shock. When you get the knack this usually works.

But it did not.

 

Second step, two pin wrench, with short,sharp shock.

No go.

 

Third step, remove plug, insert plastic stop, use effort on 2 pin wrench (including a pipe extension. Could not apply the force well enough, the saw kept sliding around.

 

Fourth step. Grind an impact socket and use the knuckle bar. This time applied so much effort I felt the string compressing, was worried about pressure points on piston crown.

No go.

 

Fifth step, remove exhaust, insert 6mm piece of rubber about the size of the piston, try the bar again, with a 2ft pipe extension. Began to worry about the 'give point' of the con rod.

No go.

 

Sixth and final attempt. 1/2 impact gun with the recently made socket, and the rubber piston stop in place. After around 30 seconds of rattling it gave.

 

Another 30 minutes of my life lost!

[ATTACH]194800[/ATTACH]

That sounds familiar…had a 346 that seemed to be untouched from new the other month. Well, the mod socket and impact wrench worked for me too.

Oh..by the look.. or lack ! of needle roller ,Untouched was about right:laugh1:

[wyk]

Had the 281 apart for minor repairs. Might as well port it mildly. She really has enough grunt, I just want a touch more response and top end. Yes, that's the typical state of my work desk.