Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

What's on your bench today?


spudulike

Recommended Posts

Totally agree with you Steve.

 

This genre of saw retails at around £150-£160, excellent value whilst they keep going.

 

But with kit of this value it is a risky business repairing it.

 

It often takes longer to work on than on good kit, as it is simply not well engineered, and the component parts are of poor quality.

 

With my hourly rate the repair costs can soon get close to the price of the machine and you then get unhappy customers.

 

Lets face it, the cheap saws are all pretty poor but many owners expect too much.

 

I dont sell them, so when one comes through my door I have no responsibility for it. But if I were to repair it, I then assume responsibility and the next time it breaks (and it will), the customer will have a go at me.

 

I just cant be bothered with this sort of hassle, so I turn them away at the door. there are easier ways to lose money.

 

There you go Rich, words of wisdom from two old farts:thumbup: Stick to the pro saws - I try to avoid the MS171/181, Husky 136/141, McCulloch, Ryobi saws - very difficult to give an owner a £90 repair bill on a saw worth £100 when all he does is cut a bit of firewood with it.

 

Easier to repair the pro stuff that gets used daily to make the owner a living!

 

Let us know how you get on..and how your day was:lol::001_tt2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

Hahaha I havnt started on it yet. It's on the list.

 

I won't be spending much time on it. Will let the customer the potential repair cost. As I always try to do if I don't know them and never dealt with them before.

 

If they don't want it repaired that's fine. Just a bill for my time. I might even end up inheriting a saw. Not that I want it, but it will be my time fixing it so no really loss from a business point of view.

 

The saws owner is the brother in law of a good customer, he told his brother in law to go buy a proper saw (stihl) so this may end up the case with this one.

 

Again it s professionalism all the way. As I never know what work will come out of it.

 

So will look into the probes and perform a few tests. Maybe spend an hour running through the obvious, like blocked bar hole or oil channel.

 

He wants it serviced anyway so the cost of the repair will include the cost of a service. This alone will put the bill way above the cost the saw is worth anyway.

 

A case of watch this space.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a quick look at the 4040.

 

Bar and cover completely gunked up. Cleaned out the oil channel aswell. Started the saw up and smoked myself out. Air filter also blocked up.

 

There is some oil coming out when running. Not much but its there. So going to clean the tank out.

 

Spud looking at the saw are you sure you can't just remove the exhaust to get to the oil pipes? Looks like you can. Will remove it later and clean the pipes and blow back down the filter.

 

Sending an hour on it to begone with before going any further.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a quick look at the 4040.

 

Bar and cover completely gunked up. Cleaned out the oil channel aswell. Started the saw up and smoked myself out. Air filter also blocked up.

 

There is some oil coming out when running. Not much but its there. So going to clean the tank out.

 

Spud looking at the saw are you sure you can't just remove the exhaust to get to the oil pipes? Looks like you can. Will remove it later and clean the pipes and blow back down the filter.

 

Sending an hour on it to begone with before going any further.

 

Not sure exactly what you're planning here Rich but just having done that 017 it seems like blowing through the oil outlet hole with compressed air - something I've done in the past, with the oil pump still in situ, is only going to blow any crud in that tube or passage back into the oil pump?

Was thinking then I should not be doing that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just have to reverse the pump when blowing down it.

 

I was going to remove the pipes and blow down from between pump and tank so any crud on the tank side of filter gets blown off then cleaned out. If I can I will just pull pipe and filter out of tank in one. Then clean it right out or replace it. Not willing to replace it tho until I get the ok to service and fix it.

 

If that makes sense?

 

By reversing the pump anything that gets blown into it goe back out the way it came in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a quick look at the 4040.

 

Bar and cover completely gunked up. Cleaned out the oil channel aswell. Started the saw up and smoked myself out. Air filter also blocked up.

 

There is some oil coming out when running. Not much but its there. So going to clean the tank out.

 

Spud looking at the saw are you sure you can't just remove the exhaust to get to the oil pipes? Looks like you can. Will remove it later and clean the pipes and blow back down the filter.

 

Sending an hour on it to begone with before going any further.

 

It was removing and replacing the pump I was talking about, does the pump gear wheel look ok or is it rounded?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok. Spent an hour on it. Although the engine is running very well. The oil is not.

 

So cleaned the tank, cleaned the lines. Removed exhaust for this.

 

Removed the clutch and everything else. The clutch has a very handy arrow saying what way to turn to remove the clutch. :001_rolleyes::lol:

 

Removed the drive for the pump an ethics looks ok. But when looked into the crank area and turned the pump with a small flat screwdriver there is a worn part on the gear. The teeth on he gear disappear at a certain pint of rotation.

 

So done the small trick by packing out with some grease and started the saw up. Oil was pouring out. So for just under an hour of my time I have found the problem without removing the entire engine. :001_tt2:

 

And yes I can see how much its going to cost to replace it. Dropped a call to the customer earlier and left a message. We will see.

image.jpg.24142c0c29e85e002bc1283259c97a14.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Removed the drive for the pump an ethics looks ok. But when looked into the crank area and turned the pump with a small flat screwdriver there is a worn part on the gear. The teeth on he gear disappear at a certain pint of rotation.

QUOTE]

 

Think I said that the problem would be the oil pump and that needs the engine to be removed to be replaced - looks like I was right again Rich:001_tt2: It was the pump:thumbdown:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.