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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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Just a little update on a MS200t that I asked for some help with. On the third time of asking (After advice on here) they changed the crank seals and guess what? It's now a ring-dinging tree-killin' beautiful bitch of a saw which rather puts the 201 in the shade, but that's for another thread...... so in conclusion over running on tickover, problems when hot, don't discount crank seals.

Thanks,

Mick

 

Good advice. But with the 200t these symptoms can be caused by all manor of problems. Iffy carb, seals, bearings, crank gasket, piston worn, ignitions wrong. The 200t is the most fidly saw I have ever worked on. It can be a real pain or can play nicely and fix straight away. But they are still the best saw ever made IMO. Other than the 088 of course. :thumbup:

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Not on the bench yet, but heading that way.

 

This little collection,plus a couple more ride-ons, arrived for service yesterday, despite the rain.

 

Only a couple so far today though.

 

[ATTACH]118192[/ATTACH][ATTACH]118193[/ATTACH]

 

Jeez, it is like the M25 at rush hour:lol:

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Spud, on a ported saw do you find you need to lean or richen the carb? My 236 that I had a go at porting seems to be rich on factory settings on aspen

 

 

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Ah:lol::lol: theres a thing - the world and his wife of experts say "richen up the saw or it will seize" - in reality, you are pulling a heck of a lot more air through the carb - anyone who knows about the venturi effect will know that this actually has the effect of naturally pulling more fuel thorough the jets so the carb actually needs leaning off.

 

I have done saws that run at 15,000rpm and are on a tad over 1/2 a turn - 3/4s is quite common on what I do.

 

The telling sign is the plug - generally at these settings it is still deep brown and not the bleached white it would be on a standard saw.

 

There you go - if you don't agree then you probably don't actually know what you are talking about:001_tt2:

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Good advice. But with the 200t these symptoms can be caused by all manor of problems. Iffy carb, seals, bearings, crank gasket, piston worn, ignitions wrong. The 200t is the most fidly saw I have ever worked on. It can be a real pain or can play nicely and fix straight away. But they are still the best saw ever made IMO. Other than the 088 of course. :thumbup:

 

But Rich, you have forgotten the 262, 254, 346, 266, 357, 395, 3120, 550, 560..........:001_rolleyes:

 

I hate not doing the FULL job on an MS200, did one where the owner just wanted one issue sorted and it came back a week later with a carb issue, a clutch spring was broken and the starter handle came off in my hand:001_rolleyes: All would have been sorted on my full rebuild service:thumbup:

 

Personally I find them pretty easy now, first one was a baptism of fire but after that - simple....but I have done one or two now:lol:

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To be honest spud I like working on the other saws. I don't find them fidly to annoying at all. Sometimes I swear over getting the carb boot on like the 026 onwards. Or the impulse line. But once you have the knack for them it isn't hard.

 

And yes not doing the full service job on a saw isn't what I aim for. It's all or nothing, in for the penny in for the pound. And by the time you have gone deep enough to change a bearing or seal you may aswell look at the other parts while your there.

 

I've god a dolmar come my way. This one is now been given a s they don't want to repair the saw and dont want it back. I will have to look what one it is but I did post asking for a brake drum for it. I don't know if I want to put it on the shelf for parts or sell the parts...

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To be honest spud I like working on the other saws. I don't find them fidly to annoying at all. Sometimes I swear over getting the carb boot on like the 026 onwards. Or the impulse line. But once you have the knack for them it isn't hard.

 

And yes not doing the full service job on a saw isn't what I aim for. It's all or nothing, in for the penny in for the pound. And by the time you have gone deep enough to change a bearing or seal you may aswell look at the other parts while your there.

 

I've god a dolmar come my way. This one is now been given a s they don't want to repair the saw and dont want it back. I will have to look what one it is but I did post asking for a brake drum for it. I don't know if I want to put it on the shelf for parts or sell the parts...

 

If it is a decent size one - port it:thumbup: Another plan is to port a 114 I have and take it to destruction or glory:lol:

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Ah:lol::lol: theres a thing - the world and his wife of experts say "richen up the saw or it will seize" - in reality, you are pulling a heck of a lot more air through the carb - anyone who knows about the venturi effect will know that this actually has the effect of naturally pulling more fuel thorough the jets so the carb actually needs leaning off.

 

I have done saws that run at 15,000rpm and are on a tad over 1/2 a turn - 3/4s is quite common on what I do.

 

The telling sign is the plug - generally at these settings it is still deep brown and not the bleached white it would be on a standard saw.

 

There you go - if you don't agree then you probably don't actually know what you are talking about:001_tt2:

 

Cheers, I had set it at 1 1/2 turns, pulled over and it wouldn't start, vapour coming out exhaust, so I did the only illogical thing and held a lighter to the exhaust, then turned it to 1 turn, plug was black, so will try 3/4 tomorrow, and once I go pick up the husky tach someone is giving me, I'll tune from there

 

 

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Just looked back and its a 116....: so would I take this to destruction or not. Guess if it went too far a cans trip it and sell the parts.

 

I will have to think about this one as it could be a job while I'm sorting out a motocross engine. Got my eyes on a 350 one I've spoken to the owner and awaiting his reply. The bike it was on was trashed, he not sure of he is keeping it or not.

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