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Posted

new clutch, sprocket and needle bearing fitted to the 350, damn if I didnae break the plastic piston stop so carb off , cylinder off all looking good , decided to mod the muffler whilst I was at it , clean up and rebuild next.

Posted
oi spud im not abusing mine :sneaky2:

just love the sound it makes so it goes through the big wood to :lol::lol:

 

And that Rich is why we like ported saws - did you hear any bogging on cutting that size wood with a 357??? Didn't think so:thumbup:

 

Nice one Martin, you must be happy with it cutting wood that diameter:thumbup1:

Posted
And that Rich is why we like ported saws - did you hear any bogging on cutting that size wood with a 357??? Didn't think so:thumbup:

 

Nice one Martin, you must be happy with it cutting wood that diameter:thumbup1:

 

hmmm What can you do to my 064???

 

Or my 260 for that matter ?

Posted
hmmm What can you do to my 064???

 

Or my 260 for that matter ?

 

Make them go faster:thumbup: Unfortunately, you cant open up the ports as much down to the piston design but gains are always available!

Posted

I'm not disputing any sort of porting spud. I'm all for it.

 

The 200t runs perfectly without any real porting work.

 

Just trying to put out a heads p over porting too much so it becomes a racing saw.... And we both know where they end up.

Posted

I'm not into this porting lark, so am going to change the subject briefly.

 

Yesterday I posted about compression testers and the need to have an idea what to expect and use the gauge to back up diagnosis.

 

A similar issue recently arose using my spark tester. I suspected that a saw had a duff coil, so put my simple spark tester on, between the HT lead and earth to use as the main spark, but there was no spark at all. So I ordered a new coil.

 

When the coil arrived I tried to start it once again before fitting the coil and it started, but not well and soon failed, which still indicates a failing coil but does lead to slight doubt as to the correct diagnosis.

 

So i decided to invest in the Stihl ZAT3 tester that I have been toying with the idea of buying for several years.

 

This tester has an easily adjustable electrode gap so you can have a small gap of around 2mm to get a good fat spark when running as a secondary spark when earthed through a plug. or can be increased to around 6mm to prove the primary spark.

 

Using it to test my suspect coil proved that the coil could only generate sufficient power to jump a 3mm gap, any more than that and no spark was produced.

 

The result was the same, the saw still needed a coil, but I was able to give the customer a bit more info than just " yer coils f**ked*

 

i will still use the simple tester for initial tests as its cheap and I tend to get through 2 or 3 a year. Will keep the Stihl for special occasions!

 

P1000799.jpg.3cfc612df1195613e498952bea9e6216.jpg

 

P1000800.jpg.82b5fb85a2a02aa1dc9e0a623c84b3e5.jpg

 

P1000801.jpg.9e25467872a936006fd781e4f80fc2b8.jpg

Posted
I'm not into this porting lark, so am going to change the subject briefly.

 

Yesterday I posted about compression testers and the need to have an idea what to expect and use the gauge to back up diagnosis.

 

A similar issue recently arose using my spark tester. I suspected that a saw had a duff coil, so put my simple spark tester on, between the HT lead and earth to use as the main spark, but there was no spark at all. So I ordered a new coil.

 

When the coil arrived I tried to start it once again before fitting the coil and it started, but not well and soon failed, which still indicates a failing coil but does lead to slight doubt as to the correct diagnosis.

 

So i decided to invest in the Stihl ZAT3 tester that I have been toying with the idea of buying for several years.

 

This tester has an easily adjustable electrode gap so you can have a small gap of around 2mm to get a good fat spark when running as a secondary spark when earthed through a plug. or can be increased to around 6mm to prove the primary spark.

 

Using it to test my suspect coil proved that the coil could only generate sufficient power to jump a 3mm gap, any more than that and no spark was produced.

 

The result was the same, the saw still needed a coil, but I was able to give the customer a bit more info than just " yer coils f**ked*

 

i will still use the simple tester for initial tests as its cheap and I tend to get through 2 or 3 a year. Will keep the Stihl for special occasions!

 

[ATTACH]108024[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]108025[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]108026[/ATTACH]

 

Is that like my sparkplug with it's electrode bent open so the plug gap is about 4mm:lol:

 

Nice shiny tools Barrie - I am making a Christmas list:thumbup:

Posted

Just the same as your modified plug Steve, when used as primary spark tester, just shinier and loads more expensive:biggrin:

 

But it can also be used as secondary spark, so you can observe the spark intensity while running, thats quite useful.

Posted
Just the same as your modified plug Steve, when used as primary spark tester, just shinier and loads more expensive:biggrin:

 

But it can also be used as secondary spark, so you can observe the spark intensity while running, thats quite useful.

 

All interesting stuff:thumbup: Guess I do most of what I do using kit I have put together myself on a shoestring, never thought I would use it as much as I have though and don't mind reinvesting cash on useful tools:thumbup:

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