What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

Not put in a conveyor in yet - got a nice new ventilation system - misses got fed up with me filling the workshop with smoke:laugh1:

 

I try to keep the saws rolling through:thumbup:

[GardenKit]

Not put in a conveyor in yet - got a nice new ventilation system - misses got fed up with me filling the workshop with smoke:laugh1:

 

I try to keep the saws rolling through:thumbup:

Ventilation will make an incredible difference as there is nothing worse than prolongued exposure to petrol fumes and exhaust smells. Over the years I have become less tolerant of these discomforts and they seem to affect me more as I age. I would not work without my extractor now. Over the last few months I have also switched to using Aspen for all my service work, so now no fumes or smoke at all!

[spudulike]

Ventilation will make an incredible difference as there is nothing worse than prolongued exposure to petrol fumes and exhaust smells. Over the years I have become less tolerant of these discomforts and they seem to affect me more as I age. I would not work without my extractor now. Over the last few months I have also switched to using Aspen for all my service work, so now no fumes or smoke at all!

 

Yes, did AGG221s 066 a while ago - left a tank of Aspen in it and was impressed with the lack of fumes:thumbup:

 

Fired up the Husky 268 yesterday and the exhaust cleared in seconds - not condoning firing up engines in confined spaces but it helps for when you need to make sure a saw will fire and start or when fueling/using solvent cleaner.

[spudulike]

Got a Stihl 020 back, sold it a while ago and the new owner has been complaining of problematic ideling when warm and bogging. It has the old Zama carb so no it isn't the usual accelerator pump issue.

 

I like to have problems like this resolved and the saw up an running ASAP, unless it is obvious owner damage, all work will be free of charge - got a reputation to maintain and it should have been right but sometimes isn't easy to find hot running issues despite 20 minutes of warm up whilst tach tuning, letting it cool overnight and a final run up.

 

I have found a little piece of dirt in the impulse, some fine dust in the carb gauze filter and a welch plug that looks like it has been out at some stage as it is dented and the glue sealing it came out with a prod.

 

I have ultrasonically cleaned the carb, resealed the welch plug as in the last image, inspected the H&L screw seats that look fine, inspected the screws and given the carb a good going over - will try it out over the weekend and will cut some wood with it after I am happy it picks up OK.

 

Top image is before the plug has been sealed and after cleaning

[spudulike]

The clock is pretty much finished, keeping pretty good time but like saws, need a little bedding in as it is probably 80 - 100 years old and hasn't run for a while - the escapment had been knockjed out of adjustment - this is the bit that allows the big main spring to gradually unwind through a ticking motion controlled by a number of gears and a very fine spring that oscillates.

 

It was missing one foot that someone had thoughtfully replaced with a big golden bead:001_rolleyes: and now has four nice new smaller brass feet:thumbup:

 

I think the wood is inlayed Walnut and the glass is unusually bevelled around the face.

[spudulike]

Busy day today, sorted out the 020T and it is now running sweetly - it was the impulse hole in the carb boot misaligned with the carb not giving enough fuel to the carb.

 

Finally sorted out the Frankensaw 268, sorted out all its little problems and is now ready to go.

 

Tach tuned the 020, the Stihl MS650 and my own ported 346XP - all fine now.

 

Been reassembling my own Husqvarna 254 that will be up for sale soon, the picture below shows why people send saws to me - the pressure check failed and has been traced back to the crank seal on the clutch side - you can see the bubbles in the soap solution that I have used to source the leak. I have had people say that putting a new P&C on is easy - it is if everything goes well but it is problems like this that the inexperienced will miss and will fry their new parts in minutes:thumbdown:

 

Just got the fun job of removing that brass pinion now:001_rolleyes:

[Arghshh]

I've just got a Husky 357xp off a pal for nowt that has chewed its piston up and the throttle return spring looks like it's snapped.

 

Can the throttle return spring be replaced or is it one of those impossibly fiddly jobs and a whole new carb is needed?

 

The cylinder looks to have aluminum deposits scratched over it on the exhaust side from the piston and not actually scored. Is it possible to clean this alloy off without removing the cylinder wall material and misshaping it etc, or am I looking at a new cylinder and piston set? The crankcase end looks mint and there is no play in the bearings so this could be a cheap fix although I don't know how to pressure test the crankcase to make sure its sound - bearing in mind what Steve has just posted above!

 

Advice on where to get a throttle return spring (if doable) and piston/cylinder online would also be much appreciated.

 

This saw is very clean and has had little use so I'd like to hear views on what caused the piston damage.

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Ash

Edited December 3, 2011 by Arghshh

[Arghshh]

Also while I'm on I picked up a BG85 blower and it was leaking fuel from the head/crankcase interface due to a loose bolt. Opened it up and it looks like there should be a gasket between the crank and head which wasn't there and the piston is scored and missing a ring! Also there is rot on the crankshaft as pictured but I don't know if this will affect running as everything else is clean and play free in there?

 

It draws fuel through fine and there is a spark etc from the magneto. The only other problem is a split fuel line and the fuel filter is past it's best I reckon.

 

I've looked for a replacement head (as that is heavily scored as well) and piston and nobody sells them other than Stihl dealers for large sums of money. I've bodged the flywheel by snapping off the fins opposite the already missing fins just so I can get it running half decent first then probably replace the flywheel.

 

This and the 357 are my first venture in fixing properly knackered machines so I'm keen to get them running again and don't mind putting a bit of money toward them as a learning process, I'm not wanting to sell them for a profit. I'd appreciate any tips anyone can offer in getting these machines back on their feet.

 

Regards

Ash

[spudulike]

Ash - will mail you about your new projects:thumbup:

[Megatron]

Ash - will mail you about your new projects:thumbup:

 

Why by private message?