What's on your bench today?

[Jim372xp]

Thanks Spud I have Dirko, would that work or is seal all better for sealing up the tube?

[spudulike]

Thanks Spud I have Dirko, would that work or is seal all better for sealing up the tube?

 

Sealall dries hard, not used Dirko but anything that dries and is petrol resistant - the standard fitting has no sealant so you really shouldn't need it but sometimes you need to do this. you can pump up the tank through the fuel line and use bubbly water to see where the leak is.

 

The vent will leak but there should be no leakage around the fuel pipe.

[Jim372xp]

Yea its definitely coming out of tank breather and not the fuel line hole.

[Eddy_t]

Dirko will work, that's what I've used before

[spudulike]

Had a reasonably busy time, had a MS362 in that is not pulling that well and wanted a muffler mod. I have given it a clean up, the clutch drum had excessive wobble on it so a new kit will be fitted.

 

The throttle lock is a bit knackered so will be replaced and have done a muffler mod to get the saw going a bit faster.

 

My experience with this model is that they are a bit sluggish for a 60cc saw and certainly no 357/560XP that's for sure - don't know if the C-M version with autotune is better!

 

Also refurbing a very clean Dolmar 123 as a deal has been struck!

[morten]

Had a reasonably busy time, had a MS362 in that is not pulling that well and wanted a muffler mod. I have given it a clean up, the clutch drum had excessive wobble on it so a new kit will be fitted.

 

Funny...

Recently, my MS 261 started throwing chains off the bar, and I noticed a wobble on the clutch drum also. Assumed it was the needle bearing at fault and changed it, which made it a little better, but still not good.

 

It turned out that it required a new clutch drum to fix it! Have you ever experienced that problem? (the clutch drum hole becoming bigger because of wear from the needle bearing – I assume). It is the first time that I change the needle bearing on the saw, and the original sprocket doesn't have much wear, so the saw hasn't run that much.

 

Not a big deal, really, although for a while, I was afraid that it was the crank that was worn

Edited October 30, 2014 by morten

[spudulike]

Funny...

Recently, my MS 261 started throwing chains off the bar, and I noticed a wobble on the clutch drum also. Assumed it was the needle bearing at fault and changed it, whijch made it a little better, but still not good.

 

It turned out that it required a new clutch drum to fix it! Have you ever experienced that problem? (the clutch drum hole becoming bigger because of wear from the needle bearing – I assume). It is the first time that I change the needle bearing on the saw, and the original sprocket doesn't have much wear, so the saw hasn't run that much.

 

Not a big deal, really, although for a while, I was afraid that it was the crank that was worn

I have had this a few times and it is common if the bearing starts going that it takes out the softer drum but generally, the crank survives as it is much harder.

I usually just purchase the whole lot as a kit that sorts the issue.

[Will Heal]

Funny...

 

Recently, my MS 261 started throwing chains off the bar, and I noticed a wobble on the clutch drum also. Assumed it was the needle bearing at fault and changed it, which made it a little better, but still not good.

 

 

 

It turned out that it required a new clutch drum to fix it! Have you ever experienced that problem? (the clutch drum hole becoming bigger because of wear from the needle bearing – I assume). It is the first time that I change the needle bearing on the saw, and the original sprocket doesn't have much wear, so the saw hasn't run that much.

 

 

 

Not a big deal, really, although for a while, I was afraid that it was the crank that was worn

 

 

The company I work for started buying 261's when they replaced the 260 but every saw had clutch bearing issues and eventually the dealer took all 6 or 7 saws back and we replaced them with stihl 362's. Now, my 362 is about 1 year old and last Friday it didn't sound quite rite and when I took the clutch off the bearing housing had melted! Yet to fit a new one so not sure if I need a new clutch drum, but apart from that I like my 362, a bit sluggish, but I'm only a tree surgeon not a forestry cutter.

 

In response to spuds wonderings about the auto tune 362s a couple of lads have them and I used one yesterday, it kept cutting out when idling so was having to rev it between cuts to keep it going. Annoying that I couldn't just turn up the tickover screw, guess it'll have to go back

[spudulike]

The company I work for started buying 261's when they replaced the 260 but every saw had clutch bearing issues and eventually the dealer took all 6 or 7 saws back and we replaced them with stihl 362's. Now, my 362 is about 1 year old and last Friday it didn't sound quite rite and when I took the clutch off the bearing housing had melted! Yet to fit a new one so not sure if I need a new clutch drum, but apart from that I like my 362, a bit sluggish, but I'm only a tree surgeon not a forestry cutter.

 

In response to spuds wonderings about the auto tune 362s a couple of lads have them and I used one yesterday, it kept cutting out when idling so was having to rev it between cuts to keep it going. Annoying that I couldn't just turn up the tickover screw, guess it'll have to go back

 

Got a few options - try a new bearing and if it is still wobbly, fit a new drum and check again or just fit a complete new set all at one time - around £30. You could measure the diameter of the clutch and see if it is say 16.4 mm when it should be 16mm, you could try swapping the bearing round the other way and see if it is less wobbly but personally would just change all the parts as they have a serviceable life.

[Lumberwolf]

The company I work for started buying 261's when they replaced the 260 but every saw had clutch bearing issues and eventually the dealer took all 6 or 7 saws back and we replaced them with stihl 362's. Now, my 362 is about 1 year old and last Friday it didn't sound quite rite and when I took the clutch off the bearing housing had melted! Yet to fit a new one so not sure if I need a new clutch drum, but apart from that I like my 362, a bit sluggish, but I'm only a tree surgeon not a forestry cutter.

 

In response to spuds wonderings about the auto tune 362s a couple of lads have them and I used one yesterday, it kept cutting out when idling so was having to rev it between cuts to keep it going. Annoying that I couldn't just turn up the tickover screw, guess it'll have to go back

 

My m-tronic 362 had to go back to the dealers to get a new carb. It was doing the same, cutting out on idle and flooding. Cut out 10 times trying to sned out one tree. No good when you're a production cutter.