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Posted
We had an MS170 with a broke chainbrake handle and a 260 with a blown piston. So we took the chainbrake handle off the 260 and put it on the 170. Bit of plastic cutting and it works. Will get a picture of it. Think of Jeremy Beadles hand and ya get the idea lol.

 

Not being funny but you may like to remember the chain brake handle has a safety function and you may have compromised the function of it.

 

What I am saying is that if others use this saw - think of how you would feel if it had failed and hurt someone - think the spare part wil be under £25!

 

Others may have their own views

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Posted

On my bench today was a Husky 235 xtorq I picked up for £10 siezed. Turned out a crank bearing had failed and killed the seal hence the sieze. £30 on New piston (Golf as I couldn't find anything better) and bearings and it seems to run well :biggrin:

 

Next problems:

Partner P100 dies once warm. Piston looks in good condition looking through both ports and rings aren't stuck. I don't think it's loosing compression when hot as I can drop start without the sissy button cold but it tries to rip my arm off after it dies. I'm wondering if this could just be way too rich?

 

A Mitox which doesn't like to rev from idle, will rev and run ok by feathering the throttle a bit first, wondering if this is just lean on the low circiut?

 

Cheers

Posted
On my bench today was a Husky 235 xtorq I picked up for £10 siezed. Turned out a crank bearing had failed and killed the seal hence the sieze. £30 on New piston (Golf as I couldn't find anything better) and bearings and it seems to run well :biggrin:

 

Next problems:

Partner P100 dies once warm. Piston looks in good condition looking through both ports and rings aren't stuck. I don't think it's loosing compression when hot as I can drop start without the sissy button cold but it tries to rip my arm off after it dies. I'm wondering if this could just be way too rich?

 

A Mitox which doesn't like to rev from idle, will rev and run ok by feathering the throttle a bit first, wondering if this is just lean on the low circiut?

 

Cheers

 

Sounds like a timing fault on the partner if you're getting kickback when warm.

 

Mitox sounds definitely like its lean on idle

 

 

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Posted
Sounds like a timing fault on the partner if you're getting kickback when warm.

 

Mitox sounds definitely like its lean on idle

 

 

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It seems to pull over ok if I remember the decomp button? Is there an easy way to test if it's timing though? The coil gap is at 0.2mm. I'll check the flywheel/key tomorrow.

 

Hopefully easy fix for the Mitox then :thumbup: Thanks.

Posted
Sounds like it may be a clutch problem rather than an idle problem. If the clutch is not disengaging then you wont get an idle.

Check clutch springs and shoes.

 

What are they like to change Barry?

Ive just ordered new clutch springs for an hs75. The ipl makes it look quite a straight forward job but is it as simple as it looks is the question :confused1:

Posted
What are they like to change Barry?

Ive just ordered new clutch springs for an hs75. The ipl makes it look quite a straight forward job but is it as simple as it looks is the question :confused1:

Its very simple. The Stihl is a bit more difficult to split than my favourite Tanaka machines but they are still easy enough to do. Just take the engine off the gearbox, keep on taking screws out until it comes apart!

Posted
Its very simple. The Stihl is a bit more difficult to split than my favourite Tanaka machines but they are still easy enough to do. Just take the engine off the gearbox, keep on taking screws out until it comes apart!

Looking at the ipl it looks almost a case of just taking out 3 bolts and pulling the engine out. :laugh1:

In theory its never going to be that simple tho as we all know. Just wasn't sure if there was any sneaky bolts that go up from the gearbox side or whether its all downward bolts so to speak..

Posted

I would like to be able to tell you exactly how to do it, but its been awhile since I had a 75 apart and I really cannot remember!

 

Something in the back of my mind says there are a couple of sneaky ones, but it will be quite obvious when you start.

Posted
It seems to pull over ok if I remember the decomp button? Is there an easy way to test if it's timing though? The coil gap is at 0.2mm. I'll check the flywheel/key tomorrow.

 

Hopefully easy fix for the Mitox then :thumbup: Thanks.

 

Coil gap is too tight by the sounds, try increasing it to .3mm, and check the flywheel key!

 

 

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