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Seized Husqvarna 254xp


adam_harmer
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Seized Husqvarna 254xp

Hi im not in the trade and just use the above saw for chopping firewood. It however appears to have seized.

 

I was wondering how much it would set me back to buy a new (not genuine) cylinder and piston or whether I would be better getting someone to bore the old cylinder. I know its an old machine but cant afford a new one.

 

If I buy a new cylinder and piston is it an easy job! I'm pretty handy with spanners but will it need tuning.

 

Does anyone want the job? Spud u like are you interested?

 

Adam

 

Might be easier to call me 07971189514

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Just a thought, you have tried pulling it with the chainbrake off? its just that if the clutch springs have gone then with the chain brake on the saw will appear siezed.

 

Not teaching granny to suck eggs, just worth a mention. and clutch springs will be cheap.

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I may be able to salvage the cylinder and then fit a new piston, the cylinders can't be rebored as they have plated aluminium bores and not steel liners as many four strokes and older two strokes have.

 

The reason for the seizure MUST be found before using the saw with new parts, the most common reason is old fuel being used or straight petrol with air leaks being the second.

 

After market non OEM P&C kits are relatively expensive for this saw - £105 inc VAT:thumbdown:

 

Have you removed the cylinder yet - if so, post a picture of the exhaust side of the bore - a real good picture if possible.

 

I am happy to work on the saw and can pressure check it, compression check it and finally tach tune it to ensure all is good.

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Just a thought, you have tried pulling it with the chainbrake off? its just that if the clutch springs have gone then with the chain brake on the saw will appear siezed.

 

Not teaching granny to suck eggs, just worth a mention. and clutch springs will be cheap.

 

:confused1::confused1::confused1:Huh???

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Just a thought, you have tried pulling it with the chainbrake off? its just that if the clutch springs have gone then with the chain brake on the saw will appear siezed.

 

Not teaching granny to suck eggs, just worth a mention. and clutch springs will be cheap.

 

I can see what you mean; clutch will be as though it's engaged so if you turn over the engine the chain will rotate, but if the chainbreak was on then the pull cord won't pull -I think :lol:

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I can see what you mean; clutch will be as though it's engaged so if you turn over the engine the chain will rotate, but if the chainbreak was on then the pull cord won't pull -I think :lol:

 

But the clutch springs will still pull the clutch shoes in, if they snap then the clutch shoe will be loose and exert no force on the sprocket - so I am still baffled.

 

To the original poster - do a compression check or pull the muffler and take a look at the front of the piston!!!!!

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ive never heard that before Tom...is that unique to the 254 or any saw?

 

There's an old one in my shed that has done exactly that, I can't really see why either, unless there's something else wrong, its one that I was given, engine runs fine, but clutch is bound solid.

 

I have never got round to having a propper look tbh.

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There's an old one in my shed that has done exactly that, I can't really see why either, unless there's something else wrong, its one that I was given, engine runs fine, but clutch is bound solid.

 

I have never got round to having a propper look tbh.

 

The clutch and sprocket are probably bound together with rust or chips, dust and dried bar oil so when the brake is on, it locks the crank in place!

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