Parts for Stihl 08S

[stihl running]

Hi all

 

Just new to the forum and really have little knowlege of the Arb world.

 

Just wanted to say hello and gather some advice.

 

I have an old but healthy (until very recently) 08S and would like to nurse it back to full health. It's like a family member so can't part with it!

I suspect the coil pack has died as I'm getting no spark....have tried different plugs etc, but still nothing.

Is it poss to do any checks on the coil assembly using a multimeter?

 

I set the magneto gap at 10thou, the points at 15thou..............that sound about right?

 

Can I still get parts ok? Could you tell me where to try.....I live just South of Glasgow so not sure if there are any dealers around there. Would also like to fit a new chain and bar as the existing ones are near end of life.

 

The saw is used for occasional light felling/limbing and logging. (excuse the terminology)

 

Any advice/help welcome.

[Megatron]

Your air gap and breaker point gap are within spec.

 

First check the kill wire and the HT lead for grounding to the case. Also check the points for corrosion. Ground the spark plug to your hand, crank the engine. If you feel a series of small shocks then it is probably the condenser that is going bad.

 

You can check the coil with a multimeter;

 

-primary winding, 0.5 to 0.6 Ohms (connect one lead of the multimeter to the wire that goes to the condenser and other to ground)

-secondary winding, 6 to 8 Kilohms (connect one lead of multimeter to spark plug terminal and other lead to ground)

 

(I wouldn't worry if you are slightly outside of these numbers as these are for the 070/090 saws but the ignition is very similar)

 

It will most likely be the condensor that is bad. You can check the condenser with a multimeter by charging it with the meter set to your highest resistance and then switching the position of the leads and allowing it to discharge through the volts setting. A good condenser will show unmeasurable resistance after a short while and hold charge.

 

If you have to replace. There may be two versions like the 070/090, do the wires screw to it or are they soldered on. Both versions are still available.

Edited August 17, 2011 by Megatron

[agrimog]

youve got a very helpfull stihl dealer just outside of troon, McCuskies, the guys in there really know there stuff, even sell climbing gear, and there prices are very good. If its still listed for the saw, theyll be able to get it for you

[stihl running]

Thanks for that info. I'll get those bits checked at the weekend.

Not too keen on that 'shock' sensation but at least it's a positive way of checking :-)

 

Any advice for which bar/chain to buy?

 

Good that parts are still available too.

 

Cheers.

[blazer]

Thanks for that info. I'll get those bits checked at the weekend.

Not too keen on that 'shock' sensation but at least it's a positive way of checking :-)

 

Any advice for which bar/chain to buy?

 

Good that parts are still available too.

 

Cheers.

 

Heard of a pre-war truck driver who would roll his sleeve up and lay his arm across all 6 plug tops to cut the petrol truck engine - that's gaining 'man-points'

 

I don't know this saw but the capacitor (condenser in old money) across the points, is worth a check as already said. I have had alot of these fail in the past (Cortinas I ended up with x2 external capacitors ) along with worn points cam (ramp profile) along with gap can affect timing, also clean the points after using any abrasive. For me the plug spark should be a strong blue or orange, if it's a bit 'thready' it may not fire up.

Edited August 19, 2011 by blazer

[mixedangased]

think most of the engine spares are the same as ts350 in which case iv`e got coils mags,pots,pistons cranks & casings etc.you might be able to change the points system to a later electronic ign but im not sure for certain but they look similer

[stihl running]

Hi all

 

Found the problem. The woodruff key (crankshaft to flywheel) had sheared, allowing the flywheel to free-rotate about the axis of the shaft.

I've not done loads of work on small petrol engined kit, but have certainly never seen that before.

The shrapnel was stuck to the magnets in the flywheel.

Everything else looks ok but I'll probably replace the condenser while I'm in there. Will also treat her to a new plug. The coil checks out ok, as does the kill switch, HT lead, good compression, etc.

 

I was advised to try McCluskey's in Ayrshire for the parts....unless anyone has some new spares for an 08S that need a new home?

[stihl running]

Hi all

 

McCluskies in Irvine came good....parts arrived Saturday, saw running on Sunday.

 

Easy enough job to do, with a little patience. Thanks for the guidance.

 

Can someone just confirm the fuel/oil mix ratio? I read 20:1 but smoke's like a chimney at that ratio. 40:1 still shows good oiling and a bit less smoke. advice welcome.

 

I've not overhauled the carb as it's all running very well. Even ticks-over pretty well for a few mins before it conks out. Was wondering if that's anything to do with the carb sertting fuel/air mix?

Does anyone know what the screw setting should be (how many turns out, from the fully home position?)

As there's no chain brake, I don't want to increase the idle.

 

Cheers.

[spudulike]

Hi all

 

Found the problem. The woodruff key (crankshaft to flywheel) had sheared, allowing the flywheel to free-rotate about the axis of the shaft.

I've not done loads of work on small petrol engined kit, but have certainly never seen that before.

The shrapnel was stuck to the magnets in the flywheel.

Everything else looks ok but I'll probably replace the condenser while I'm in there. Will also treat her to a new plug. The coil checks out ok, as does the kill switch, HT lead, good compression, etc.

 

I was advised to try McCluskey's in Ayrshire for the parts....unless anyone has some new spares for an 08S that need a new home?

 

When the key shears, the saw often backfires on pulling it over - scared the poop out of me when I had this happen - not the sort of thing I was expecting - here is the gallery of the 028 I did - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/members/spudulike-albums-stihl-028-broken-woodruff-key-removal.html

 

Nice clean job and ran well once it had been done.

[stihl running]

When the key shears, the saw often backfires on pulling it over - scared the poop out of me when I had this happen - not the sort of thing I was expecting - here is the gallery of the 028 I did - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/members/spudulike-albums-stihl-028-broken-woodruff-key-removal.html

 

Nice clean job and ran well once it had been done.

 

Aye, it did the backfire through the carb......thought the engine had blown when I saw smoke coming out of every port!!!

 

Good job to do, and running very well now.