Oak

[Yeti]

Hello guys,I'm going to try make some oak coasters,I'm left a little unsure as how to and what is the best way to finish these,and best oil choice.I'm new to the finer end of wood craft,usually I'm too busy hacking and chain saw carving so any tips would be appreciated

thanks in advance

yeti

[pgkevet]

I'm hardly an expert on this..only done a few carvings at various times. If it involves proximity to food then generally almond or walnut oils get used..but if you have a wife like mine who chucks anything into the dishwasher and want to avoid ring marks from hot cups etc..then if it was me I'd probably go with a 2-part clear epoxy for coasters.

[Goaty]

Bruce Hoadley mentions this in his book Understanding Wood, a craftsmans guide to wood technology, worth a read I'd have a look for you but Im away from home. But I do know they are very prone to radial splitting, You can use P.E.G instead of seasoning normally.

[wisewood]

Bruce Hoadley mentions this in his book Understanding Wood, a craftsmans guide to wood technology, worth a read I'd have a look for you but Im away from home. But I do know they are very prone to radial splitting, You can use P.E.G instead of seasoning normally.

 

I can't find the thread but Rob D discusses ways to stabilise large rings for making table tops. I know you're working on a much smaller scale but the theory should be the same.

Basically ratchet strap the discs around the circumference to prevent splitting and also glue ply underneath to stabilise splits and warps.

Having said all of that, if you've got a load of seasoned logs cracking would be minimal anyway. A nice radial arm saw would give a nice clean face and make life easier too.

[Yeti]

I used had been sat seasoning in l

[Yeti]

The oak I used had been sat seasoning in length for 2 years with cracks on the ends,I used piece of thicker branch wood and cut some slices off.As mentioned one has started to crack.I've tried for ages to make rings of wood stay crack Free to work with but have no luck sadly.I put this down to lack of experince haha

any good beginners books I would certainly read.

[agg221]

Discs sawn from a branch were popular for veneering furniture in the late 17th century - they were called 'oysters' and the technique is known as 'oyster work'.

 

The technique for making these is to saw the branch into a series of rings, leaving the bark on, then reassemble them in order with a sheet of blotting paper between each one, slightly overhanging the edges of the ring. The rings are then clamped firmly with a g-cramp, placing a heavy board at each end (these days a bit of 3/4in ply works well), and left to dry. The paper wicks the water out, while the clamping force stops the rings from shrinking and cracking as they dry. You're seasoning right through the ring thickness, so it takes a couple of years for a 4in branch.

 

I've never seen it done with oak, which does move a lot - more common with laburnum or fruit woods, and if you look at old oysterwork there are frequently cracks that develop later due to the stresses. I would guess that soaking well with oil would be a good way to reduce movement in the dried oysters.

 

Using PEG from a woodturners' supplies place is much quicker.

 

Alec

[Ian Leach]

I wouldn't use walnut or almund oil incase anyone has a reaction to it (nut alergys).

 

I would probably use a hot air gun and melt beeswax or carnuba wax into it or linseed oil which penertrates deeper into the wood than most other oils. Or just put a hard wearing lacqure on it.