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Fig 8


Steve Bullman
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  • 1 month later...

Correct me if I'm wrong but some rock climbers refer to the 'figure of 8' as the death knot. As a knot it works well if under tension as a loop and comes undone after being under load, but if used to join two ropes as in absailing it can come undone and doesn't run through a karabiner. The simple overhand knot will hold better according to many climbers and will run through a karabiner.

 

One good use for the 'figure of 8' is to fix a static belay, although often tied as a 'double rope' and can be tied with a 'single rope' where another rope needs to be attached to a karabiner with an existing rope already in it - so there is no need to 'open the gate' putting the guy on the other rope at risk if he fell.

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Correct me if I'm wrong but some rock climbers refer to the 'figure of 8' as the death knot. As a knot it works well if under tension as a loop and comes undone after being under load, but if used to join two ropes as in absailing it can come undone and doesn't run through a karabiner. The simple overhand knot will hold better according to many climbers and will run through a karabiner.

 

Hi blazer

(speaking as a rock climber for a min) i wouldn't call the fig 8 a death knot..

it is the recommended 'tie in knot' when re-threaded around the climbers harness. i use it in the same application some times to attach a biner to a loop on the end of the rope or perhaps a floating anchor.

 

Its a really strong knot

 

it can suck to undo after heavy loading (I tend to rock climb on a bowline with yoesemite tie off when climbing hard stuff which maybe tells you something about how often i fall:blushing:)

 

Spot on for the joining of 2 ropes... the over hand is an asymetric knot so doesn't present as much surface to the obstacle as it travels over/on/through it.

 

 

i like the Fig 8 for sending a retrievable pulley up a tree:thumbup1:

but tend to use a barrel knot for a stopper.:thumbup:

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As a rock climber the fig8 (or rethreaded fig8) is the main harness tie in knot. It has a feature in that it can capsize and roll off the dead end of the rope hence the use of a stopper (fishermans) knot tied tight against it. I was taught that we tie a stopper knot because we can.... If the tail is long enought to tie the stopper, the fig8 is unlikely to roll off it, but then you need the stopper to tidy up the loose ends.

It's quite good fun when you clip the tail instead of the live rope when leading a particularly frightening pitch and realising that your protection isn't there!

 

I'd generally use a single fig8 as a stopper. relatively easy to untie.

 

I am particularly interested in these 'threads about knots' as tree and rock climbers seem to use the ropes and knots in different ways, even for the same result. I would have expected more similarities in the disciplines. Especially with prussics and variants.

 

Amusingly when joining two ropes for a retrievable abseil an overhand (with long tails) is used, the reason being that the asymetry allows it to roll over obstacles rather than than jam in them.

 

Do any arbs rock climb?

 

Sorry for hijacking the thread.

 

EDIT: typed slowly, submitted, then saw the post above. Sorry for the repeat.

Edited by marka
slow thinking, slower typing.
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Death knot - I found it in an old rock climbing mag, some years ago many guys had strong feelings for it. I will have another play around with some rope and see what happens.

 

Still it raised your comments which is always good, any minor error can 'hurt'. I have only done some single pitch rock climbing and although enjoy learning different knots I'm a bit limited on range.

 

I started off in the mid 60's with 'bowlines' for a harness, by the early 70's was erecting high voltage switchgear 400kv etc, the other guys had the old 'leather safety belts' but I brought a 'Willians harness' and a load of gear and applied rock climbing techniques to construction, which I could do pre-HSE.

 

My best bit was using a large overhead crane with ground controls, I looped my harness over the hook while holding the controls and went 'flying around the factory':thumbup1:

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  • 7 months later...

I've found that it typically is easy to untie except after real heavy loading. but there are much better knots out there so I don't end up using it much anymore. I suppose joining 2 ropes with it is ok but it takes more time tying and untying, why not use a butterfly hitch. load it as much as you want and it unties like a bowline. The fig.8 is good as a combination knot like in the truckers hitch which is basically a sliped fig.8 and a clove hitch.

Edited by mikepage
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