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Farm saw


haforbes
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husq 340 is a good all rounder, 350 if you want a bit more grunt

 

That was my first comment - I have used a few makes and models now and if wood is to be cut - always grab my 345 with a muffler mod - tached to 13,000rpm - nice and light, well balanced with a 15" bar, great AV and really has some go - I only reach for the Jonsered 630 60cc when the wood goes over 18" diameter!

 

I see the 350 gets poor rep for mufflers coming loose - unjustified in my mind - never had a problem myself:confused1:

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"Simple fix" is always dependant on the person fixing, my simple fix is another persons hell!

 

Not idling could be a simple carb adjustment on the "L" setting, an incorrect idle speed, tank breather, incorrectly rebuilt carb or the Infamous Husqvarna carb boot problem - get an air leak on this and it will cause issues - if it has a decompressor then this could be leaking.

 

It could be simple or more complex - if it is a silverside for under £300 and is running then grab it:thumbup:

 

IMO, if it is running it is well up on most of the kit I get in!

 

If you get it and can't fix it, send it over and I will get it ripping - if it is a silverside - you may not get it back though:thumbup1: - just joking

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I am sure other members will come up with other things.

 

Pro range saws have far better anti-vibration devices than home-owner saws do. So if you plan to use the saw for extended periods, and don't want to end up with numb/cold fingers, go for the pro saws.

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I've got an MS250 ergo with 16 inch bar and chain. Its not as easy to start as the huski that I borrowed but it is a good chainsaw. Them 90cc makitas go like fury, but I think they are heavier due to being built like tanks. the 64cc ones might be better.

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