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converting my john deere


michaelf
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Hi all I'm thinking about converting my john deere 6930 into a forestry tractor for when i finish college i have the money to do so.

 

 

But my question is can you get the winch /skid bit at the back removable so when it comes to silage and crop time and speading slurry I can take it of to pull the trailer and use my pto still.

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I've got a double drum, 3t per drum winch on my Case, pto driven and mounted via the 3 point linkage. It's plenty big enough, no more difficult to remove or hook onto than a topper! It has a decent back plate so skidding isn't a problem.

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Hi all I'm thinking about converting my john deere 6930 into a forestry tractor for when i finish college i have the money to do so.

 

 

But my question is can you get the winch /skid bit at the back removable so when it comes to silage and crop time and speading slurry I can take it of to pull the trailer and use my pto still.

 

Most winches are 3pl mouted. With the exception of a few double drum winches. I have a 6.5t double drum and for what i do i wouldn't want to go any smaller.

 

Forestry conversions are expensive as there is a lot of steel involved. That has a belly plate, front guard, brush bars, and the cage round the cab. Side windows are guarded too. Should really do the back window to be proper guarded up. The belly plate is the most expensive bit as its 3mm steel all under the thing. With holes in where filters and bits of gubbins you need to get to are. These have plates bolted over them.

DSC_0518.jpg.b3e25ab1e649ec3ca1afac9ea612d794.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

we run different tractors for agric and forestry contracting, it can be done by one tractor but if your talking 3pl winches easy to change over, things like boughton winches bolt straight to back end and you have to take the linkages off and thats probably a good day for 2 guys to take on/refit linkages etc.

also is your deere a sg2 cab? as not alot of room and alot of glass that can break.

if your just skidding out with your 3pl and trees against the base plate of the winch, as long as your stumps are cut low and not alot of debris to catch the pipes underneath you should be ok, but bear in mind also weight distribution, forestry tractors like valtra/valmets engines are built around the front axle for weight , countys are also very weighty and your john deere might be too good to use?

just my opinon, from hearing the guys tell me what we fit on our vehicles - so may be wrong - joy (the lads are out fixing stuff as i type!)

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Thats a tidy machine you have there is it an A95? What are they like to use and are they good on fuel?

 

It's the A92 and they're fantastic little tractors. The key word there is little. The cab is very small inside which isn't really an issue unless like me you spend a lot of time in there. Once you have the fire extingusher in there and a small first aid kit and some lunch there is no room. Thats not too much of a problem if your just going forward.

 

If you use it for forwarding then its a night mare. Trying to turn the seat around is an involved procidure that normally results in some gear box grinding as you hit the shuttle (which is on the right rather than the left like the N series) oh and the knocking of the linkage to constant pumping oh and the ocasional knocking of the spool value controler.

 

So yes its a good tractor good 4wd and diff lock. Nice range of gears the crawler box is good. Pulls well will do 40kph but only in 4wd my only quibble with it is that the cab size makes it really uncomfortable to forward with. I'm 5'11 and my legs go to sleep as there is so little space with the seat turned round.

 

Good on fuel. Its not bad the N series is better if you don't have any 1000pto speed machines get it with 540/540e gearbox and it will use even less. Also have the A92 HItech which basically has air con and a button clutch on each gear stick. This one i can't decided wether its heavier on fuel or its just used more for but for little bits thus using more fuel.

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i was speaking to a contractor who was debating gaurding his tractor but he came to the conclusion after alot of research that the guarding made it to heavy for feild work and made it a pain as the raer windows can't be opened

 

The cage on mine sits just far enough away to open the side widows. As for the back either don't guard it and just use a bit of marguard instead of glass. That will require changing every so often as it does cloud up. Or make the rear window guard removeable just have it held on with linch pins. Wilsons use to do some old guards that allowed the window to open a bit. They came off the top frame at an angle and then went to a big bar then went back into the frame. Sort of triangle shaped but not quite.

 

 

Oh on another A92 note visability for side arming verges ain't great. Hedges its ok with but the small windows don't show enough verge to cut it easily.

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