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Best way to run in a saw?


Sam Thompson
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ive always believed that giving a fresh engine some hammer, getting it loaded up asap beds the rings in a lot better. have come across several car engine rebuilds that have suffered as a result of being 'too gentle'.

 

with my new 372 and 200t, they were the first 'new' saws ive owned, and they went to work the 2nd time they were run, but that was out of necessity more than anything

 

4strokes are different to 2strokes whn it comes to "running in" IMO

 

I ride a 4stroke motocross bike and would never run it flat out fresh from a rebuild, nor do i run it flat out from cold.

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1) Cold start - after it starts (in start position / slight throttle lock) blip throttle immediately and allow to idle for upto 2 minutes - none of this balls to the walls 4-stroking no-load cold engine crap. Ouch.

2) Use mineral base 2-stroke oil, not fully synthetic. The manual won't tell you this but running those first few tankfuls on Stihl HP mineral will reduce bore glazing and enhance bedding in.

3) Allow engine to idle before switching off - this allows the flywheel fins to remove latent heat build-up particularly to the ignition coil and assoc. components.

4) Ignore above posts suggesting otherwise; high loads and high rpm-no-load is bad - end of.

5) By the same token avoid not sufficiently loading the engine during break-in; this can cause seizure when the engine is then run hard later on; so as per HK above - 3/4 throttle etc.

6) If for any reason you have removed the spark plug prior to use, make damn sure it's correctly tightened - that means neither too much or too little.

7) Vary the revs in use - this seats the rings.

Edited by TimberCutterDartmoor
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I think probably the worst thing you can do to a new motor is to full throttle it with no load. Im all for full throttle with full load though.

 

Another little thing at any time of an engines life, is to let it idle before switch off. Lets the motor cool as its supposed to, as if the motor is off, it can actually get hotter immediately after its stopped

 

Edit; took me ages to write my stuff, hence TCD posted it before me!

 

So, as he said!

Edited by 18 stoner
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Thanks guys. I will go for the TCD approach I think, it wont hurt will it, and I dont need the saw for work straight away.

 

 

 

read the manual, & do what it recommends for bedding/running in of the saw,had you read the manual in the 1,st place ,you could have saved your time & my time writing pointless post ,all the best withthe new saw :biggrin:

 

If you read the post then you would know I dont own the saw yet, wouldnt you? :001_rolleyes:

 

 

All the best, and thanks lads

 

 

Sam

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Thanks guys. I will go for the TCD approach I think, it wont hurt will it, and I dont need the saw for work straight away.

 

 

 

 

 

If you read the post then you would know I dont own the saw yet, wouldnt you? :001_rolleyes:

 

 

All the best, and thanks lads

 

 

Sam

 

i know you dont own the saw yet, thats why put READ the manual ,not go & read the manual :laugh1:

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If it's a bike the general concencus is to run it like you going to race it. Modern machining and metallurgy negates the need for the old system of running in.

 

It's been proven that an engine worked hard from the off will produce more power and last just as long or longer than a mollycoddled one. If you're too careful the rings will just glaze as opposed to bedding in and forming a good seal.

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New saws are set too rich , so that they don't rev so high and will lubricate better.Therefore it is important to have it retuned , for maximum power , after it has been run for 3-4 hours.:thumbup:

 

Partly true imo; Echo are shockers for factory-rich setup; Stihl on the other hand don't bother. My 036 was tuned by a legend when new and wasn't retuned in 10 years!

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