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Posted
This is not meant as a criticism, but more as constructive advice, lookingat the photos i am assuming that picture five with the diagonal cut and the saw in the picture is supposedly the gob. If this is the case and assuming that the photo was taken sideways on to the gob then this really is where a lot of the problems start. If you take a line up the tree from the back of the gob then there is very little throat at all as effectiveley all youve done is remove the front toe or buttress. It is better with trees like this to remove the toe first and then put the gob in. If in this case the photo tells the true story then the tree particularly with the rot involved had nowhere else to go but sit on the saw untill enough was released at the back for it to snap off. Removing side buttresses can more often than not be detrimental to the felling of large trees as you are giving away a lot of control you have over the tree.

 

Point taken.:001_smile: But I have been told that leaving the buttress's alone and cutting higher up with an even smaller face cut would have been the way to do it.

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Posted
Matty after some posts on the Treehouse and a chat with an old time feller today who started out in the 1970s I went about the tree all wrong, I should have followed my gut and cut higher and left the buttress's alone...

 

.

 

You got away lightly.

 

ratchet straps of truck drivers chain tensioners fastened round the stem and then cut as high as possible ( below the straps) can hold things together just enough to deck it and get away.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Started this removal yesterday, nice day - good weather for treework, some rigging, some freefalling.....went pretty smooth, so far so good.

597653be56c62_Beechtree205.jpg.83a006d6c35ce6883f7f08158387ade9.jpg

597653be53e42_Beechtree201.jpg.5fe442cabcae5ed8ee621a091671b310.jpg

597653be51763_Beechtree202.jpg.dbf972080c7f2df016be0f2e58a9cbdb.jpg

597653be4e96d_Beechtree200.jpg.59b96e564c6976793e37c85447368a6a.jpg

Edited by scotspine1

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