Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

I call that a bore cut with a back strap. I was always taught to make the backstrap release cut horizontal, and just slightly lower than the bore cut, which would supposedly keep the tree from grabbing your saw if the strap let go early. I'm not sure that it makes a difference, though.

Posted
I call that a bore cut with a back strap. I was always taught to make the backstrap release cut horizontal, and just slightly lower than the bore cut, which would supposedly keep the tree from grabbing your saw if the strap let go early. I'm not sure that it makes a difference, though.

 

thats all ive ever called it too leon......and ive seen the release cut done many different ways....i sometimes go horizontal or at an angle, ive never experienced anything thats swayed me towards one or the other.

Posted

In response to High Scale, I don't understand how you would use that cut for a backleaning tree. How would you get wedges in, and what would be the point of bore cutting it?

 

Steve, that's good to know about the release cut, thanks.

Posted
Split level cut? cut for a tree leaning against the direction of intended fell.

 

Def not a split level. Split level is where the tree is leaning back. Put gob as normal then do a felling cut but only 2/3 the diam of the tree. Wedge/felling bar in the back side on your felling cut in the direction of fell. Second felling from the opp side of the first cut at an angle (tip of bar to overlap under wedge/bar). When complete lever over in the desired direction. The two felling cuts will seperate (like a step cut).

Stops sitting back etc.

Posted

Ah, I call that a quarter cut, good for small trees with backlean. With all the different names for all the techniqes it's a wonder that we can understand what we're all talking about.

Posted

thats a pointless technique IMO, meant for small trees where there isnt room to stick a wedge in and still cut without the wedge interfering with your chain.

if a tree is small enough that you can get a wedge in using conventional methods then i really cant see a case for the wedge at all, a simple push over will do fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  •  

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.