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MattyF
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I call that a bore cut with a back strap. I was always taught to make the backstrap release cut horizontal, and just slightly lower than the bore cut, which would supposedly keep the tree from grabbing your saw if the strap let go early. I'm not sure that it makes a difference, though.

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I call that a bore cut with a back strap. I was always taught to make the backstrap release cut horizontal, and just slightly lower than the bore cut, which would supposedly keep the tree from grabbing your saw if the strap let go early. I'm not sure that it makes a difference, though.

 

thats all ive ever called it too leon......and ive seen the release cut done many different ways....i sometimes go horizontal or at an angle, ive never experienced anything thats swayed me towards one or the other.

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Split level cut? cut for a tree leaning against the direction of intended fell.

 

Def not a split level. Split level is where the tree is leaning back. Put gob as normal then do a felling cut but only 2/3 the diam of the tree. Wedge/felling bar in the back side on your felling cut in the direction of fell. Second felling from the opp side of the first cut at an angle (tip of bar to overlap under wedge/bar). When complete lever over in the desired direction. The two felling cuts will seperate (like a step cut).

Stops sitting back etc.

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thats a pointless technique IMO, meant for small trees where there isnt room to stick a wedge in and still cut without the wedge interfering with your chain.

if a tree is small enough that you can get a wedge in using conventional methods then i really cant see a case for the wedge at all, a simple push over will do fine

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