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mystery problem with husky 181 bar/chain


daltontrees
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I wonder if anyone can explain a problem that has developed with the guide bar on my saw.

It is a Husq 181SE that I bought second hand a while ago and despite reservations about its weight I have now grown to like it a lot, normally it whistles through anything you put in front of it. It still has the bar and chain it came with, which I believe is a genuine husq 26(ish) inch bar and a chain that has an odd number of drive links. This chain I know instinctively is a bad idea since the extra .375 inch spacing between two of the chisels has got to be causing vibration. Anyway I have persevered using it to pretty good effect but recently I noticed that the outside edge of the bar has shattered slightly in quite a few places. See the pic.

The chain seems a sloppy fit in the groove, maybe the problem is that the chain could be a 1.5 and the bar a 1.6? Or the uneven number of links is setting up a vibration? I am also worried in case the Arborol (Oregon's water based chain oil and a fraction of the cost of oil) is not doing the job.

Anyone seen this before or know what's happening? And should I just keep on using it toill it falls apart before putting my new bar/chain combo on?

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i run all our huskys on oregon bars once they need replaced seem to work better on longer bars , looking at that bar i think dressing out the damage would be too much. as for 050/058 look on the bar it tells you which one is correct. what you been cutting lol:001_tt2:

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Cheers, I have checked and it is an Oregon chain type 73 so it's a 1.5. The bar is Husky and says 3/8 on it (the pitch, I guess, for the nose sprocket) and there is a part number so I will see if I can find out what gauge it is.

I have only been cutting Ash/Beech/conifers with it, I just took it out for a test 10 minutes ago and it flew through a 300mm diameter log of cypress in about 8 seconds. The inside of teh rails is intact it's just the outside that's chattered.

Replacement Husky bar is about £70 and chain about £40 so I may get a 28" Oregon bar/chain combo next time which costs about £50 + £30. Oregon stuff's great on my other saws.

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the first picture looks like the burr on the bar has just broken off, dress it when needed will stop that but the second pic you have bits that look ripped out? has it been dropped onto hard wood while going to cut? I always use Oregon bars on my Husky's for years no problems as I have mineral oil. Never tried the "new" water based stuff I am too old fashion and like to run with the oil feed on or near max. I know a little oil goes a long way but them chains are going around at a fair old rate of knots and would prefer to use a little more than a little less.

Call me old fashion & set in my ways :-)

 

Personaly I would get a new bar & chain and dress the old bar and keep that and the chain (which has plenty of life left) as a spare for when your stuck. It maybe stuck in the box for years but at least you will have one to fall back on.

 

Good luck

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Hi

Looking at whats on show in the picture,

The bar rail is beyong repair and will only damage a new chain so replace asap.

the chain is worn into the chassis some from the bar and i would guess also by a worn sprocket or rim if fitted.

 

I suggest you go to your nearest Oregon dealer and get all replaced

The 24" performs well so you could use

248RNDD009 Retail £60.00 approx

Or change the first 2 numbers for 26", 28"

Chain use 73LPX084E on 24" or 089E =26" or 092E=28"

Sprocket = part no 32059X + 21276 bearing

Powermate drum and rim = 28094X drum + 68210 rim + 21276 bearing

 

The arborol ultimate works well when mixed correctly with 4 parts water and is shaken before use every day.

 

The bar is a replaceable nose type so you will get long term use as long as you look after it.

Sequences [and irregulatories] on cutters on chains don't normally cause a problem just in case you ever see this again.

 

Hope this helps

 

Les

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Thanks everyone, the verdict is to tidy up the bar but put it and the chain aside for emergencies, and get myself a new Oregon 28" combo. May splash out on a new sprocket too. Thanks for the part numbers.

I know it looks as if I have been ploughing fields with it but that's what chains look like when you use Arborol, when it dries it leaves a film on everything that invariably looks dirty. That chain is f***ing sharp, it was pulling off chips about 100mm long during yesterday's test.

I am interested to hear that the odd number of drive links doesn't make any difference. Like would be the case with semi-skip chains I suppose.

And I will turn up the oil feed rate, especially if I go for a longer bar.

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Fair nuff Mesterh the chisel points are a bit rough although the edges are very sharp. I will need to improve my sharpening technique.

 

The Arborol worries me a bit, especially as I have bought a huge load of it. I had been thinking of diliuting it a little less (it says on the label that if you are cutting wet trees like poplar or working in rivers you should reduce the dilution) but right enough in hot weather that might not be so smart. But next week I have some enormous Larch to cut into dozens of discs and the 'milk' seems good for that sort of thing as it is very very cheap and I am working on the ground and can check the temperature of the bar all the time. I will probably get through about 5 litres of diluted Arborol (cost about £1) instead of real oil at about £10. If i was doing it every day it would add up.

 

My new Oregon bar and chain should arrive tomorrow, so I have to decide whether to switch to real oil. I will soak the new chain in it anyway before using.

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