Idea for making chainsawmilling easier...

[tommer9]

I dont see the problem with screwing/ nailing into the timber. For those of you saying it is useable wood, then i think you are a bit mis-guided...the slabwood is waste anyway, as is poor quality and very sappy esp with oak.

[Cracker]

I dont see the problem with screwing/ nailing into the timber. For those of you saying it is useable wood, then i think you are a bit mis-guided...the slabwood is waste anyway, as is poor quality and very sappy esp with oak.

 

I thinks it more about using the ladder on subsequent cuts. I know I struggle guiding the mill off and making a clean job of it.

[Tommy_B]

I thinks it more about using the ladder on subsequent cuts. I know I struggle guiding the mill off and making a clean job of it.

 

Maybe I'm being thick here, But once you've put the first cut in using a ladder, you don't need to put another on it, You just got off the previous one. Or am I missing the point?

[18 stoner]

Sure Tom, but some people find the end of the cut can sometimes have a "drop" in it when the first bar of the mill goes over the end of the plank. Using a ladder each cut helps prevent this "drop".

 

I dont bother, but i'm still a beginner so perhaps theres room for improvement:blushing:

[Cracker]

.

 

I dont bother, but i'm still a beginner so perhaps theres room for improvement:blushing:

 

Me too. The 880 with 48" is a heavy machine!

[Tommy_B]

Sure Tom, but some people find the end of the cut can sometimes have a "drop" in it when the first bar of the mill goes over the end of the plank. Using a ladder each cut helps prevent this "drop".

 

I dont bother, but i'm still a beginner so perhaps theres room for improvement:blushing:

 

I'm with you now mate!! I wasn't sure and thought that there was something I was missing!! haha!! I've not done a great deal of milling and normally just get impatient and rush it!!

[Rob D]

I've managed to get over this dropping off at the end.

 

As you reach the end of the log and the front rail is just about to go over change hand position off the upright handle and push down hard on the back box section back rail.

 

As the mill travels through the last stages of the cut it keeps level and makes sure it comes square off the log.

 

Works a treat!

 

 

 

Sure Tom, but some people find the end of the cut can sometimes have a "drop" in it when the first bar of the mill goes over the end of the plank. Using a ladder each cut helps prevent this "drop".

 

I dont bother, but i'm still a beginner so perhaps theres room for improvement:blushing:

[18 stoner]

Cheers Rob, i can feel a days milling coming on next week now, even if its just to try that little tip!

[dylan]

you could get two pieces of uni strut and two pieces of angle iron to make a rail system

simplly fasten a piece of angle between the two lengths of uni stut at each end to suit log length and secure with screws into the end grain

have got all the bits but not got round to making it yet will post pics when i do

[Bob Slade]

i think i mentioned this before, i find the best way to stop the bar dropping is to stop about 12" from the end and then push the far end of the bar round till it is about half way out of the top, then pull it back and push the head end round to meet the cut, square the bar and put two wedges behind the bar. if you are using a long bar and big drive head this is the time to turn it off then move round to the front of the mill and then draw the mill out. this way you will always keep two rails on the wood and stop drop off. try it and see that you dont need loads of unnessessary gear.