Hamas big reduction/pruning thread!

[Dean Lofthouse]

, is evenly foiliated and will not produce too much advantigeous growth, but extend normaly.

 

 

Like I say, 12/24 month on photos will be the way to back up your argument, without it's just pure conjecture

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

Christ Josh

 

I'm not saying all reductions should be felled!!

 

I'm simply saying, if you are going to drastically reduce something, it's not good in one hit.

 

In a domestic situation try to persuade otherwise

 

If you are going to top/pollard is MUST be kept upto which is the work most of us rely on

 

Ireelavent to these images though as not one of them has been unpruned previously! but a valid point. I wouldnt hit a fragile ill tree hard, but i am able to judge when I can and cannot go hard, if i was THAT fearful that I was going to do something wholly detrimental I would refuse to do the work or quit my job, I do have pride and standards.

 

sorry onme or two wherent previously pruned, my bad,

[Stephen Blair]

can we draw together some key points to consider when approaching a tree for reduction. so we can have a 10 point check list say, for the things to consider, and lets not have the customers thoughts in any of them. all i really know about is the sail effect of tall growth on week growth points. so thats why we should reduce, i am interested in knowing more about, leaf cover and energy storage for winter time. so maybe our check list can incorporate seasons aswell.

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

well most important of all these considerations is that carbs are stored in the root system during the winter/dormant period late summer sees the start of this proscess and after first flush in spring these carbs are virtualy non existant, so the tree is at its weakest yearly point, it would be criminal to remove a signifcant amount of foliage at that time.

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

when a tree is of low vitality and vigour is alo a bad state to be doing anything more than VERY light tipping/retrenching.

[Stephen Blair]

tony could you explain your post for me please, what do you mean by first flush and what does retrenchment mean, i cant get digging out my head when its used lol

 

tony why dont you make up a calender of the months, with tips and dos and donts for species. now that would be brilliant to have in your work folder. hell i would even pay some pennies for that

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

tony could you explain your post for me please, what do you mean by first flush and what does retrenchment mean, i cant get digging out my head when its used lol

 

tony why dont you make up a calender of the months, with tips and dos and donts for species. now that would be brilliant to have in your work folder. hell i would even pay some pennies for that

 

I am not "qualified yet shrek, dont ask me to dig myself into a minefield of argumental postings!

 

you can ring me anytime you want for advice though:wink:

[Stephen Blair]

ok, i see your point. but lets get back on dos and donts then. oh and 'flush' do you mean first growth, because the leaf is just out to start feeding the tree, and along comes stevie to cut it off, NO!!!!!!

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

ok, i see your point. but lets get back on dos and donts then. oh and 'flush' do you mean first growth, because the leaf is just out to start feeding the tree, and along comes stevie to cut it off, NO!!!!!!

 

Thats the one Stevie, As a general rule i look at the leaves, as once every tree is out and about in its full plumage its not so easy to tell what state of flush its in.

 

If the leaves are soft and bright, then its too early to prune it, but once theyve hardened off and darkened off its able to take a prune again just go easy, how would you like having your eggs and bacon taken away while still rubbing your eyes in the morning!

[Stephen Blair]

ha ha, you try taking food off of me lol. good stuff, i am seeing this in a whole diferent light now