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Posted
11 hours ago, Mark_Skyland said:

Carb issues that I see everyday are either, pump diaphragm with pinholes, this is the thin black plastic piece under the cover that is usually held in by one large screw in the centre of the cover. Blocked strainers or more often than not dodgy one way valves/valve/check valve.  The accelerator pump is also prone to fail on a lot of the C1Q carbs. If gaskets and diaphragms don't sort it then IMO just replace the carb. Using a cheap Chinese copy can be hit and miss, Ive seen enough of them that I dont bother working on a machine if its had one fitted as you can just waste so much of your time trying to sort it out. If its a pro saw then just pay the money and buy genuine.

 

 

Agree,

Chinese replacement carbs can indeed be hit and miss. Example from this year. 2 year old 13hp loncin motor on a beach boat hauling winch. Much corrosion of carb due to saltwater exposure. I replaced original carb ( Chinese loncin ) with a Chinese carb. 

     Winch under load would stall out unless choke on partially. ( Running lean but fixed main jet) Put old main jet into new carb ....sorted. not E10 related I know but what I'm getting at is it's easy to fit a new carb and if the machine is still not right you go on a wild goose chase looking at other possibilities.

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Posted
17 hours ago, Stubby said:

The rubber be it nitrile , butile , or whatever has a coating put on it its this that  pump fuel removes , You say you have never used an alkylate fuel but you insist that it attacks rubber . How do you know this ?

 

My understanding is that newer twos strokes have better "rubber" or engineered plastics that can cope with ethanol, hence why the manuals say its ok to use ethanol fuel.  I'm not saying they pump fuel doesn't cause other issues - water attraction, additives gumming up etc., carbon build up etc, but that carbs and lines are better able to cope with ethanol. I still try and check them for cracks or issues though. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

 

My understanding is that newer twos strokes have better "rubber" or engineered plastics that can cope with ethanol, hence why the manuals say its ok to use ethanol fuel.  I'm not saying they pump fuel doesn't cause other issues - water attraction, additives gumming up etc., carbon build up etc, but that carbs and lines are better able to cope with ethanol. I still try and check them for cracks or issues though. 

I don't think its the ethanol that attacks the rubber ( could be wrong ) but the other parts of the pump fuel , Ethanol is the bugger that attracts water as I understand it . 

Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, Stubby said:

I don't think its the ethanol that attacks the rubber ( could be wrong ) but the other parts of the pump fuel , Ethanol is the bugger that attracts water as I understand it . 

biofuels absorb water. Biofuels such as Fatty Acid Methyl Esters (FAME) biodiesel and ethanol are hygroscopic, meaning they readily attract and hold moisture from the air. 

also with diesel it supports a bacteria ,commonly known as "diesel bug" that will multiply at an alarming rate until it renders the affected fuel system totally inoperative.

there are chemical products available, "biocides" that can reduce and eradicate this bacteria.

Edited by Oldfeller
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Stubby said:

I don't think its the ethanol that attacks the rubber ( could be wrong ) but the other parts of the pump fuel , Ethanol is the bugger that attracts water as I understand it . 

 

I thought ethanol was the problem in both situations - attracting water but also softening and attacking "rubber" (or what we think of as rubber) flexible parts in carbs and fuel lines.  The other junk additives (corrosion inhibitors, de-activators, and stabilizers) can settle in the carb as the rest of the fuel evaporates which causes gumminess and blockages.

 

I'm really tempted to try and separate out ethanol one day to see how pure petrol performs and smells.  there are lots of vidoes online about this.

 

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Posted
19 minutes ago, Muddy42 said:

The other junk additives (corrosion inhibitors, de-activators, and stabilizers) can settle in the carb as the rest of the fuel evaporates which causes gumminess and blockages.

Are these only added to E10? I had assumed it was the ethanol reacting with something else that was causing gum which didn't happen with straight unleaded.

Posted

Sounds more like a lean start issue than a Husky thing. If they’ve sat that long the carb diaphragms can go crispy and the metering side won’t deliver enough fuel on first fire. That’s usually what scores them. I’ve seen Stihls do the same if they’re left parked up too long. A quick carb kit before starting would probably have saved them.

Posted
2 hours ago, openspaceman said:

Are these only added to E10? I had assumed it was the ethanol reacting with something else that was causing gum which didn't happen with straight unleaded.

 

Its in all fuel, E5 and E10 to varying degrees.  The ethanol is added by the refinery (allegedly at the last minute to avoid the ethanol messing up their systems or attracting water, oh the irony!) and each brand adds their own additives. It would be great if there was more testing and transparency in the UK.  Finally its amazing that hydrocarbons retain their usefulness for millions of years underground and humans manage to refine it and add stuff that make it go stale after a few months!

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Posted
51 minutes ago, Muddy42 said:

 

Its in all fuel, E5 and E10 to varying degrees.  The ethanol is added by the refinery (allegedly at the last minute to avoid the ethanol messing up their systems or attracting water, oh the irony!) and each brand adds their own additives. It would be great if there was more testing and transparency in the UK.  

We always saw "varnishing" of the insides of carburetors that had been left with fuel on, as the petrol evaporated but it seems to have become worse.

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