Stove statistics are they correct?

[BillQ]

18 hours ago, GarethM said:

but think we both know you fitted it.

That's the point in question, and I proved you wrong it isn't about ⬇️

 

40 minutes ago, GarethM said:

And yes you invalidated that piece of paper, you were quoting the regs.

Absolutely, correct just like the MOT is only valid until you drive the car away from the garage. 

 

Re underfloor. There are plenty of vents around for there to be airflow aplenty and yes they could get blocked either accidentally or on purpose but that's whataboutary or deadcatting. A simple heat engine like my stove is not going to work as supposed by the manufacturer and the independent tester as the variables are many and the stop on the primary air, in my opinion, is a blunt instrument at best, the hole drilled for the screw has a couple of mm play, the bend in the metal is possibly a couple of mm away from the natural curve of the plate which begs the question of whether it was a Friday when the person bent it and it certainly isn't a right angle. So combining those little things with the weather, the heat, length and construction/type of flue, the type of wood, the temperature of the wood, the heat of the stove etc etc I'm going to use the stove without the stop in place and use the look of the flame and the temperature of the flue (very sketchy but a reasonable way to identify the flue temperature) and how warm the room is as I am then in control of the variable factors which a metal box cannot do. 

 

I worked in all male workplaces so I have a certain amount of thick skin and I think you missed the sarcasm a little. 

 

Get used to the word narcissist, as you can't back down and you keep saying you don't care what I do but you still want to reply, your first reply was an absolute give away, next time just ask for clarification rather than think the worst of someone or tell them that they are butchering a stove by just removing a stop. I notice you didn't bother doing the same, unless I missed it, to spud when he told of how he adapted his? Perhaps you thought that you could try and bully the noob, not happening my friend.

[GarethM]

Think you'll find spud is not in a control zone, so can do as he pleases legally and is only controlling the burn rate and not flue temperatures.

 

I could stand here and argue with cough management, but I'll let the titanic sink whilst you aimlessly veer into that ever so lovely iceberg.

 

Plus narcissistic isn't really the word, confident in my own knowledge would be something completely different.

Edited 3 hours ago by GarethM

[Steven P]

Moisture in the house.... cooking steam, showers, baths, breathing, poorly ventilated gas boilers, gas hob, The Boys spilling -more- juice, damp and wet shoes and jackets, washing machines, dish washers, tumble driers, pot plants - err- indoor plants, washing laminate floors... in a well sealed house all increase moisture vapour and can increase it above ambient outdoor vapour.

 

In the winter outside air can dry - colder it holds less water, inside air, warmer, can hold more moisture... which can turn to condensation when it hits cold surfaces. Anecdotal from me but putting the bedroom fire on upstairs draws more air in (both stoves burning), more air changes in the house and drier indoor air.

 

Older houses were designed to be leaky, gas appliances could be less well designed, open fires were more common needing the air flow. Modern houses without the open fires and better vented (outside vents!) boilers means they can be better sealed... and then can cause a problem with an after market stove... not enough air flow. Windows have to have trickle vents in them because all the leaks are too well sealed.

 

However if (and when) I change the stove I'll be putting in an external air supply for it even with a leaky house. Next job however is an air con / dehumidifier for the bathroom

[GarethM]

Whilst I've not fitted one, suspended bathroom ceiling bs so dehumidifier on the landing.

 

MHRV is your best bet in a bathroom, something like 90% heat recovery or if you've a loft you could have it returning outside the bathroom so you get a bit of fresh air constantly.

 

Not cheap but cheaper than a dehumidifier in the long term as they're about 250/300w Vs something like 30w for a mhrv.

[openspaceman]

1 hour ago, GarethM said:

MHRV is your best bet in a bathroom, something like 90% heat recovery or if you've a loft you could have it returning outside the bathroom so you get a bit of fresh air constantly.

I was willing to look at a single room MVHR for the bathroom to replace the vent axia fan but and nigh on 2000 quid I'll pass.

 

It's the same with an  electrostatic filter for the chimney something I'd like to do but at a similar cost it would not be worth it, better to stop burning logs and switch the gas boiler back on.

[GarethM]

Think you're looking at a whole house one at 2000, circa 250 for a bathroom one depending on manufacturers etc.

 

Vent Axia Tempra Heat Recovery Unit | Pullcord 443312

WWW.ELECTRICPOINT.COM

 

 

Edited 2 hours ago by GarethM

[openspaceman]

3 minutes ago, GarethM said:

Think you're looking at a whole house one at 2000, circa 250.

 

Vent Axia Tempra Heat Recovery Unit | Pullcord 443312

WWW.ELECTRICPOINT.COM

 

 

No I was looking at this:

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/58020-single-room-mvhr-unit-white?&msclkid=864c4c99773d132a3cfb2b17e43abc7d&gclsrc=3p.ds

 

I cannot see why so expensive, even so it makes more sense to return the heated fresh air downstairs.

 

I already move air from above the wood stove to an adjacent ( but for stairs) room.

[BillQ]

1 hour ago, GarethM said:

Plus narcissistic isn't really the word, confident in my own knowledge would be something completely different.

I'll refer m'learned colleague to the statement earlier "but think we both know you fitted it." And then to the documentation that refutes the assertion and ask again for an apology for the incorrect statement or to confirm that he is indeed narcissistic. 

 

Your move.

[GarethM]

8 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

No I was looking at this:

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/58020-single-room-mvhr-unit-white?&msclkid=864c4c99773d132a3cfb2b17e43abc7d&gclsrc=3p.ds

 

I cannot see why so expensive, even so it makes more sense to return the heated fresh air downstairs.

 

I already move air from above the wood stove to an adjacent ( but for stairs) room.

Erm have you looked at the specs, that moves enough air to vent your average b&Q warehouse or your local leisure centre!.

 

It's 250 litres a second!.

"Suitable For Commecial and Leisure Areas"

 

A whole house system like this wouldn't be bad.

 

 

Quiet-Vent Himpel 8 Room Kit

WWW.BPCVENTILATION.COM

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Edited 1 hour ago by GarethM

[GarethM]

4 minutes ago, BillQ said:

I'll refer m'learned colleague to the statement earlier "but think we both know you fitted it." And then to the documentation that refutes the assertion and ask again for an apology for the incorrect statement or to confirm that he is indeed narcissistic. 

 

Your move.

You know what the definition of insanity is, as that what you're asking.