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Ms500i felling spikes.


Ledburyjosh
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1 minute ago, slack ma girdle said:

You shouldn't need spikes for cross cutting,  if the chain is sharp it should pull the saw through without an additional force from you.

You would think with the years of development Stihl put into the 500i, someone would have noticed this ‘need’ earlier.

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2 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

I don't have a 500i, but I have filed off about half the length of the spikes on my 088.  I find this better for crosscutting and milling. The remaining metal protects the main body of the saw, but you can still dig in a bit if needed.

 

 

De-rail Sorry. If I'm milling with 881 or 661 spikes are off. Gives an extra few cm on the width and the mill acts as a fence to save the saw. Doesn't ta long and benefits outweigh time lost.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Bob_z_l said:

 

 

De-rail Sorry. If I'm milling with 881 or 661 spikes are off. Gives an extra few cm on the width and the mill acts as a fence to save the saw. Doesn't ta long and benefits outweigh time lost.

 

 

I used to just remove them aswell before the nine inch grinder chop!

 

However I also use the 088 for blocking up or crosscutting big logs and got very aware that I had a saw with the power of a motorbike and no chain catcher (its attached to the spikes). They are a bit of a faff to take on and off and I’d only lose something in time.
 

Post op, the chain catcher is always there and the spikes dont interfere with milling.

Edited by Muddy42
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11 hours ago, Ledburyjosh said:

The stihl bumper spike are no where the size of the yank ones if that's what your picturing

Thats because the 'Yank' ones are degigned for biting into the thick spongy bark of redwoods.

Try carrying a saw uphill through brambles with the big spikes on.

Most of the time i don't use spikes/felling dogs, a sharp chain is all you need.

The exception is felling downhill on steep slopes where positioning is difficult .

Edited by slack ma girdle
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