Milling - MS660 - Oregon Powercut Bar?

[Stihl_Ben_UK]

Hi all

I've been reading this forum with interest as I have some oak trees to fell and would like to use the timber for cladding. I'm probably going to hire in someone with a bandsaw mill so as not to waste too much timber. But I've also been lent a 36" Eco Mill and I've an MS660 which currently has a Stihl ES Light 28" bar.

 

I'm guessing the Stihl ES light would be damaged by clamping a mill to it?

 

In which case I need to buy a guide bar and chain for use with the mill. I've seen a 36" Oregon Power Cut bar on offer - would this work OK? Has anyone used these successfully? And of course what chain should I put on it?

 

Thankyou

[trigger_andy]

1 hour ago, Stihl_Ben_UK said:

Hi all

I've been reading this forum with interest as I have some oak trees to fell and would like to use the timber for cladding. I'm probably going to hire in someone with a bandsaw mill so as not to waste too much timber. But I've also been lent a 36" Eco Mill and I've an MS660 which currently has a Stihl ES Light 28" bar.

 

I'm guessing the Stihl ES light would be damaged by clamping a mill to it?

 

In which case I need to buy a guide bar and chain for use with the mill. I've seen a 36" Oregon Power Cut bar on offer - would this work OK? Has anyone used these successfully? And of course what chain should I put on it?

 

Thankyou

The Guide bar will not not be damaged by the act of clamping it to the Mill. A 28" Bar will give you about 22'" of cutting width though, so if you have wider Oaks than this then get the 36" Bar and get yourself an extra few inches. You'll get maybe 30" with a 36" Bar. 

 

For Chains there is a whole range of Milling Chain out there. Id get something like this; 

 

3653-36RMX Stihl Ripping 3/8 .063[1.6mm] Chainsaw Chain

WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

---

Special Rapid-Micro horizontal saw chain, primarily for use in conjunction with horizontal cutting devices as well as mobile small sawmills.

 

 

You need to check what pitch that bar takes etc. 

 

If you're milling Slabs or beams then its worth using the Alaskan but for Cladding its a waste of time, fuel and timber. As you say, best getting that Bandsaw in. 

Yo

[Bob_z_l]

Your Eco Mill can be adjusted down to fit the 28" bar. I wouldn't think you'll damage it. The clamp at the head end will be on solid bar. The nose end you need to come back away from the sprocket on to the solid bar. 

I imagine you'll get 22-4" odd of cut. 

Yes get a longer bar if you want, a 36" will still only get 30 maybe 32" cut. You'll  need to take the dogs off (felling spikes) to really make the most of either bar. 

A proper ripping chain from chainsawbars will give a smoother finish but your normal full chiz will give decent results that will just need a bit of tidying t get a nice finish. 

 

I used a GB 42" lo-pro on an eco mill and had a true 36" cut. Not cheap if you are just doing a few cuts.

 

Have a look at @Rob D chainsawbars website. It's absolutely loaded with info and you-tube "how-to" vids.

 

Happy Milling

[Bob_z_l]

1 minute ago, trigger_andy said:

 

 

If you're milling Slabs or beams then its worth using the Alaskan but for Cladding its a waste of time, fuel and timber. As you say, best getting that Bandsaw in. 

Yo

 

 

This exactly. 

[trigger_andy]

Just now, Bob_z_l said:

 

 

This exactly. 

Im not sure how I ended my post in Breaking Bad style.  

 

[Stihl_Ben_UK]

Great advice thanks. So I'll stick with my Stihl 28" ES Light bar and shouldn't damage it. And I'll buy a ripping chain to go on it to suit the bar. And a bandsaw mill if I decide to go the cladding route. 

 

Cheers everyone for the pointers, its really appreciated!

[Macpherson]

Hi, if you have a 36" mill Oregon do a 42" bar that would maximise the capacity as around 6" is lost in mounting the saw in the jig, as for the chain a quick search on ebay has the bar with a ripping chain at around £200, I think if you go lo pro a 48" bar is available.

 

cheers.

[Muddy42]

Go for it.  As someone who has recently started milling, I can say its a lot of fun and very rewarding.

 

As said, go easy on the light bar, avoid clamping anywhere near the sprocket tip as you'll damage it (like I did). I'd just add that you have nothing to lose by just cracking on with the kit you have already.  Try it out before you go spending lots of extra money. For example:

- I bought ripping chain, but have ended up sticking with regular hand sharpened cross cutting chain.  

- I bought a 36 inch and a longer bar, but found the 36 inch bar was plenty heavy enough to be working on my own with.

Good luck.