Stihl_Ben_UK

Well the tree is down, actually seemed a bit smaller on the ground, thankfully most of it was just within the milling limits of my 28" bar with a bit of trimming here and there and the Alaskan mill set uncomfortably close to the bar tip on a couple of occasions! The tree had a nice amount of metal content amazingly the Oregon chain went through metal quite a few times without snapping. Made a few decent size gate posts, various slabs and other random shaped bits. Only mystery was one slab the saw refused to cut, after taking the top off and successfully milling 2 slabs with ease on the 3rd slab, about 1/3rd of the way along the saw refused to go any further, no metal present, just stopped progressing, wedges etc all good, no logic to it, saw still sharp. Tried from the other end of the log, got 1/4 way along same issue. Can't understand why on that cut I couldn't milling along it, so gave up and plunge cut it the other direction with an 038 and a granberg mini mill. Cut no problem that way. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Thanks everyone for your advice. I'll have a look when its down. Perhaps I'll just make a few posts with my chainsaw mill and see how they turn out.

Cheers gents, especially Andrew, very informative. I don't know a huge amount about the history of the tree but agree it does appear some laterals have been removed in years gone by. From the advice above, and seeing as I already have a chainsaw mill and due to work commitments, I'm thinking possibly the following approach to it: 1) Fell tree carefully in Feb, cutting the straight bits into max 12ft lengths (so I can transport it later) 2) Chainsaw mill it in April into 10"x 10" and 8"x8" posts for gate posts which I'll need a few of anyway. 3) Transport fairer pieces to a mill for band sawing to cladding thickness , retain worse pieces for gate posts etc I've still got a few queries: >should I do the initial chainsaw milling immediately in Feb or leave it settle / relax whatever first? I'm keen for the latter for the sake of my neighbours / noise, i.e. give them a bit of a break, but understand its better to mill Oak in wet/ cold conditions? >should I immediately bandsaw mill the better pieces that will be cladding or will a few months / year of initial drying be ok? >Any recommendations for what to use to seal cut ends? > for cladding would 20mm be the advisable thinnest to go for? Is feather edge worthwhile with Oak or too prone to warping? Should Oak cladding be treated? I'm using it for outbuildings and a large steel framed gate. >Can sapwood and bark be used for Oak cladding? I've certainly read a few posts warning of bugs in Oak bark..? Should I remove only bark or bark and sapwood? >Should I treat Oak gate posts (they will installed green sometime in June?) If so what should I treat them with before I plant them? Thanks to everyone for your help on this!

In my garden I have a reasonably large and straight English Oak to fell in February. I'd like to use the wood from it for something other than firewood, hopefully ultimately mill it with a chainsaw mill or hire in someone with a bandsaw mill. So far I understand to take care from shocking the wood during felling and to cushion it on brash or similar. I've also heard its worth leaving the wood to rest / relax for a reasonable period before milling (tree is and has always grown on a lean with weight to one side). I've heard mixed answers regarding to milling. Some say mill immediately on felling, some say season first. Diameter is around 36" on the trunk, possibly a bit more. In an ideal world I may consider using it for cladding, in that event what's the thinnest sensible thickness that Oak can be milled to without causing issues? Any advice on this welcome, I just dont want to spoil what could be useful timber. Thanks

I have a very good mid 80's (at a guess) Stihl 038 however its no longer producing a spark. Photos below of the original ignition system. I see lots of different topics and threads about these, I understand I can order alternative aftermarket parts to replace the original ignition trigger and coil assembly but could anyone provide a link to the parts I would need. Thanks in advance!

Great advice thanks. So I'll stick with my Stihl 28" ES Light bar and shouldn't damage it. And I'll buy a ripping chain to go on it to suit the bar. And a bandsaw mill if I decide to go the cladding route. Cheers everyone for the pointers, its really appreciated!

Hi all I've been reading this forum with interest as I have some oak trees to fell and would like to use the timber for cladding. I'm probably going to hire in someone with a bandsaw mill so as not to waste too much timber. But I've also been lent a 36" Eco Mill and I've an MS660 which currently has a Stihl ES Light 28" bar. I'm guessing the Stihl ES light would be damaged by clamping a mill to it? In which case I need to buy a guide bar and chain for use with the mill. I've seen a 36" Oregon Power Cut bar on offer - would this work OK? Has anyone used these successfully? And of course what chain should I put on it? Thankyou

That's exactly the info I was after, many thanks. I'll stick to waving a 3 blade brush knife or circular saw blade around above my head instead then!

Hi, hopefully I've posted this in the right place.. I've got a Stihl FS360 brushcutter which I normally use for its intended purposes, however I do have some high reach hedgecutting to do (at home). I know Stihl (and others) offer an array of attachments for other models of brushcutter. Can any of these hedgecutter or polesaw attachments, stihl or otherwise, be fitted or adapted to fit my model of Stihl Brushcutter? This is DIY use only so not worried about liabilities / insurances / warranties etc. Just want to know if anything will physically fit if I were to remove the brushcutter head from the strimmer and try and fit something else? Trying to avoid buying a whole extra machine if I can avoid it. Thanks for any advice or input!