Help needed with a Stihl ms200t

[spudulike]

Should be OK then and they are a tight fit against the crank - it eases with time.

[GLynch]

I found that the intake boot was split so I've fitted a new one but still no improvement, I tried to do a compression test but I bought a cheapo compression tester but I don't think it works I e tried it on good working machine with the same result, also the spark plug is bone dry even after I get it running and keep the revs high, completely at a loss now 

[Darkslider]

Have you tried putting the carb settings back to standard after fixing the inlet boot? Most owner's reaction to big air leaks is to wind out the mixture screws to get it sort of working again for another few months 🙄

 

Good compression tester is probably the first tool you should have when fixing saws, the basic Gunson one is ideal and quite cheap, you could end up on a wild goose chase looking for more complicated faults when actually you've got a nipped up piston with 75 psi compression 

 

 

[spudulike]

1 hour ago, Darkslider said:

Have you tried putting the carb settings back to standard after fixing the inlet boot? Most owner's reaction to big air leaks is to wind out the mixture screws to get it sort of working again for another few months 🙄

 

Good compression tester is probably the first tool you should have when fixing saws, the basic Gunson one is ideal and quite cheap, you could end up on a wild goose chase looking for more complicated faults when actually you've got a nipped up piston with 75 psi compression 

 

 

 The guy has fitted a good carb from a working machine otherwise I would agree with you.

In my first post I did say remove the muffler and look at the state of the piston as many are shot now.

The split inlet boot would have seized the piston and it is rare that the inlet bot splits and the owner stops using the machine immediately......most seize the saw in my experience!

So....check the state of the piston!

[GLynch]

Looks like cylinder and piston are shot, the rings are moving free though

[Stubby]

Cylinder may be saveable if its just aluminum transfer . 

[GLynch]

I wouldn't know where to start with that, might just try a non genuine cylinder and piston

[Stubby]

18 minutes ago, GLynch said:

I wouldn't know where to start with that, might just try a non genuine cylinder and piston

No . Go OEM if you want to do that but , Brick acid or similar can remove aluminum transfer quite easily and followed by a light hone can sometimes  bring a cylinder back into action . A quality AM piston and Caber rings and jobs a goodun . Spud will be along to confirm if I am talking bollox or not 🙂 @spudulike

[Ratman]

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[spudulike]

Just go to L&S and purchase an OEM kit. This is a working saw, you want top compression and performance. Most AM kits are pretty suspect and if you think paying £40 more for a kit on a saw that will earn you that back in the first two hours is too much, you need a psychologist and not a mechanic. 

So to recap - I said check the piston and cylinder in my first response. On finding the split boot, I said the piston and cylinder will be shot...we are ten days on and my track record has been pretty good.

If you want the saw back to good working order, OEM boot, OEM cylinder kit and I would do the accelerator pump in the carb for good measure but is up to you as it is a bit tricky to do.

The OEM kit is not bad value and will give you the best running saw plus will last years if set up OK.....it makes sense and you pay cheap, you pay twice. If you phone and plead poverty, they may give you a bit of a discount.......

You can go the Stubby route, it is the way I used to do it but the supply of Meteor pistons has dried up plus you need to purchase a hone and know how to use it etc.....BUY A NEW OEM KIT!!!

 

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