Go lo Pro?

[Rough Hewn]

They only contract to where they were before they got hot though so if they were not too tight before you started cutting they should not cause any damage.

Yes...
But if you re-tension when you’ve warmed the chain up before milling,
Then when you leave it to cool it will over tension itself, widening the rivet play and pulling on both sprockets...
[emoji106]

[topchippyles]

3 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

50”-86” max?
No way.
You can go much wider.
If your depth gauges are set around 0.7-0.8mm
You could pull 100” no problem.
The deep power stroke on the 090 is like nothing else.
On 50” wood an 880/881 will paste an 090.
But on huuuge wood the 090 is king.
With hyper skip chain you could do 120” easily.

Been watching old series of axemen and they used the 090 for the monster trees. The 090 was to equal to chain sawing to what john holmes was to the porn industry.  090 100" bar  - john homles 19" bar 

Edited March 4, 2021 by topchippyles

[Macpherson]

33 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

But if you re-tension when you’ve warmed the chain up before milling,
Then when you leave it to cool it will over tension itself, widening the rivet play and pulling on both sprockets...

I'd imagine that with the extra long bars you're using you must find the chain getting really slack when it gets hot.

 

I'm relatively inexperienced in milling compared to yourself and many others on here but I'd say that if I don't keep an eye on the tension as I go the finish of the board can suffer from one end of the cut to the other as the chain stretches particularly if I stop and start.

[Rough Hewn]

I'd imagine that with the extra long bars you're using you must find the chain getting really slack when it gets hot.
 
I'm relatively inexperienced in milling compared to yourself and many others on here but I'd say that if I don't keep an eye on the tension as I go the finish of the board can suffer from one end of the cut to the other as the chain stretches particularly if I stop and start.

Yep.
Chain tensioning is a pain.
[emoji106]

[Macpherson]

2 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Chain tensioning is a pain.

You're not wrong....I can't help thinking that from a milling point of view the bar tip has the opportunity to be better engineered, I can see the possibility of a dedicated milling tip with a spring loaded tensioner and a guide roller like a large rim sprocket but with no teeth...it would be great if the chain could just stay at the same tension automatically regardless of temperature.

 

[agg221]

4 hours ago, Macpherson said:

I'd imagine that with the extra long bars you're using you must find the chain getting really slack when it gets hot.

 

I'm relatively inexperienced in milling compared to yourself and many others on here but I'd say that if I don't keep an eye on the tension as I go the finish of the board can suffer from one end of the cut to the other as the chain stretches particularly if I stop and start.

Yes, I let it. It's not ideal but you can't endlessly re-tension so I tend to find a happy medium where the chain is possibly a little on the tight side (stiff but you can still pull it over) when starting and then let it warm up and cool down, getting slacker and tighter accordingly. The side against the cut is pretty much tight anyway so it's only the back face where the chain is potentially loose. So long as you are keeping the cut open more than the kerf (wedges) I don't find it tends to drag, so the finish doesn't suffer too much. There is a lot more loss of finish from not keeping the chain sharp and absolutely even.

 

Alec

[agg221]

9 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

You’ve got a spud ported 090????
Photos pleeeeeeease!
🤣

Sadly not. Spud was servicing my 066 at the time and ran a compression test on the 090 and set the peak revs a little low (I prefer it that way) before I set to on the large oak. I do have a selection of 090AVs from different eras, but they are all stock.

 

Alec

[topchippyles]

2 minutes ago, agg221 said:

Sadly not. Spud was servicing my 066 at the time and ran a compression test on the 090 and set the peak revs a little low (I prefer it that way) before I set to on the large oak. I do have a selection of 090AVs from different eras, but they are all stock.

 

Alec

You find spud pretty good alec 

[agg221]

9 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

50”-86” max?
No way.
You can go much wider.
If your depth gauges are set around 0.7-0.8mm
You could pull 100” no problem.
The deep power stroke on the 090 is like nothing else.
On 50” wood an 880/881 will paste an 090.
But on huuuge wood the 090 is king.
With hyper skip chain you could do 120” easily.

I don't disagree that the saw will pull a longer bar, but how wide can you go ripping on full comp in hard wood?

 

The big trees in the US tend to be a lot softer and are usually crosscutting. I would be interested to hear the widest anyone has successfully used full comp chain to rip with on an 090 (accepting that if you set the depth gauges very shallow it will do it, but by then you might as well use skip chain on a deeper setting as it will cut faster). The widest I have gone is 86" in semi-dry oak, which worked fine, but was using skip (50%).

 

Alec

[Rough Hewn]

I don't disagree that the saw will pull a longer bar, but how wide can you go ripping on full comp in hard wood?
 
The big trees in the US tend to be a lot softer and are usually crosscutting. I would be interested to hear the widest anyone has successfully used full comp chain to rip with on an 090 (accepting that if you set the depth gauges very shallow it will do it, but by then you might as well use skip chain on a deeper setting as it will cut faster). The widest I have gone is 86" in semi-dry oak, which worked fine, but was using skip (50%).
 
Alec

The longest single head bar I know of are the 84” from GB and 84” cannon bar.
And if the 881 will pull a full comp 84” then the 090 will be fine.
Skip and hyper skip are best for long bars.
If only to reduce sharpening times!🤣
(And reduce mechanical stresses).
Any photos of your collection?
[emoji106]