Hasqvarna 44, fastening the nut stops the chain from turning.

[Semsoldier]

Hello ladies and gents, 

I've recently found a Husqy 44 and did a full service on it, however after putting a new 18 bar I realized by tying the nut my chain stops moving, the chain break has no problem and working fine, I'm wondering if any had a same problem and there is a fix, please see the video attached, it appears the chan stocks in the bottom part of the bar.

the saw is Husqvarna 44

the bar is New Husqvarna 18 .325

the chain is Husqvarna 18 .325

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

 

Edited February 8, 2021 by Semsoldier

[bmp01]

I don't have a Husqvarna 44 but I'd be surprised if there is a model specific problem like that. 

Assuming that's the same pitch and gauge chain that came off. ... I'd question the following:

- sprocket wear,  light marks on the drive teeth is OK, more than that might be causing the chain to travel in a dogleg fashion between sprocket and bar with a new bar and chain.

- is clutch cover binding on clutch/sprocket, might be incorrect assembly of clutch/sprocket or addition of any new parts that have the sprocket towards the clutch cover.

 

Couple of thing to try...

Take the chain off, replace bar and clutch cover, tighten cover nut. Does clutch rotate ok ? (Access from below). 

Put old bar/chain combo on, same binding?

 

Tell us what you learn, hope you find a clue there.

Edited February 9, 2021 by bmp01

[Khriss]

Not a link too short ? Has happened on a couple of my bars , even using the DLink number stamped on bar . K

[Semsoldier]

Hi, It appears the bar is not wide enough and fastening the nut put pressure on the gage, I've put a washer on the nut after the bar and everything is smooth now, I'm guessing the older bars were made wider. 

[bmp01]

What is it this "gage"?

Thickness of bar changed - maybe so, if you got narrow kerf chain or aftermarket bar... surprised clearances were that small to start with though for the "gage" to bind up now. Are you sure you've got to the bottom of it ? 

Packing washer - not a nice solution. 

 

[bmp01]

Looking at video again,  not aftermarket bar so probably genuine chain too.

Looks like the clutch cover is clamping close to the edges of the bar, over the bar rail area. So are we saying bar profile is different to original (not thickness as I assumed)?

And its clamping the bar rails, pinching of chain drive links ?

I can see why washer wors in that case, still not nice solution.

 

On a new set up, drive links are a nice (close) running fit in the bar, check for paint over spray or small dings. Short run might ease the high spots.

Is the clutch cover nice and flat, not worn or distorted to put undue pressure on bar rails?

Is the chain correct number of drive links, shorter would move bar in a tad, small gain, grasping at straws? 

Might be there is a different (old spec) bar with different fitment you should be using ?

 

HTH.

 

 

[Haironyourchest]

The chain is a different guage to the bar - I had this recently when filing a bunch of old chains. It will run when the cover is off or loose, but as soon as there's a bit of pressure it locks up. Hang onto that chain for use on an old worn out bar.

[adw]

I have seen this before, take a file across the face of the chain brake cover where it sits against the bar, you may find it is not flat, failing that as was previously said paint in the groove of the new bar, back in the days of the 44 we only ever had  .325 058 gauge, there was no 050 gauge, good little saw, just watch out for splits in the bellows of the fuel hose.