Homelite 550 - 84cc

[topchippyles]

1 hour ago, TuscanPhil said:

Cheers Spud.  Saw arrived yesterday and I've had the briefest of brief looks at it.  Thrown in some 50:1 and managed to get it to start, but it doesn't like to idle at a reasonable speed (yet)!  I've had a quick play with the low jet and idle screw but haven't much time today to play with it.  New spark plug on order, carb kit inbound at some point, but I'm sure I'll be able to get it running well enough in the mean time (hopefully!).  The 18" bar has a 'rotating nose' on it and the chain isn't that old so will take a sharpen ok.  The 30" bar is solid (no rotating nose) and that chain is ....... on its last legs, so I'll get a new semi chisel (for cutting my larger trees/logs) and a ripping chain (for when my chillaskan arrives) on order shortly.

 

Yes, it's an old saw but (hopefully) I didn't pay too much / over the odds for it, and if I can mill some of my own timber for hobby projects, it's not a lost cause!

Are you growing a moustache to go with the saw ??

[TuscanPhil]

1 minute ago, topchippyles said:

Are you growing a moustache to go with the saw ??

Maybe in a week or two - certainly once the film offer comes through though!

[TuscanPhil]

On 11/08/2020 at 18:56, spudulike said:

Vintage saws need to be owned by people that understand them!...... They ain't like modern saws.....but are fun once going!

Spudulike - may I pick your brains please?  Having started to strip down the chainsaw while I wait for the carb kit to arrive (few more days....), I've found another piece that needs replacing (no surprise there!).  From the Homelite IPL, I've identified it as part 12348-A which now seems to be 12348B and also UP06556.  I can find some USA suppliers, but obviously with a fair bit of time for it to arrive (though could be similar time-frames to the carb kit), so I was wondering if you knew of an 'equivalent' that might fit a Husky or Stihl?  It's the rubber boot that links the carb to the cylinder and is made of rubber.  The ebay item is: 

New Carburetor Connector Fits Homelite 450 550 DM50 Replaces OEM 12348B UP06556

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

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One 1 carburetor intake boot # 12348B = UP06556. REFER TO PART NUMBER 12348A, 12348B AND/OR UP06556. Bin # UP06556.

 

Everything else seems to be ok so far, though I haven't started to strip the carb yet..  Fuel and oil tanks rinsed out - not much muck in them, any other part removed cleaned and degreased, just waiting for reassembly!

 

[spudulike]

It doesn't look like anything from Stihl or Husqvarna will fit, if it is split or perished, it looks like a wait to get it from the States.

My old McCullochs had cast induction tubes, I did fit new carb kits, fuel lines and seals. The tanks were full of grott so a flush out is a good idea. I also checked the reed valves but I think your saw isn't reed induction so you should be OK.

I also checked the contact breaker timing which is a bit of a learning curve if you are under 40 years!

[peatff]

15 hours ago, TuscanPhil said:

It's the rubber boot that links the carb to the cylinder and is made of rubber.

If it's got a few splits in it get some Tiger seal and coat it . I've done it with bike manifolds and got years out of them.

[spudulike]

Probably a good call, seal it up and get a new one on order. 

[TuscanPhil]

14 hours ago, spudulike said:

It doesn't look like anything from Stihl or Husqvarna will fit, if it is split or perished, it looks like a wait to get it from the States.

My old McCullochs had cast induction tubes, I did fit new carb kits, fuel lines and seals. The tanks were full of grott so a flush out is a good idea. I also checked the reed valves but I think your saw isn't reed induction so you should be OK.

I also checked the contact breaker timing which is a bit of a learning curve if you are under 40 years!

Cheers, thanks for looking, the States it is then, just need to check I don't need any other bits before I order to I can combine postage etc.  I've also been playing with sidevalve engines (and their timing) since about 1980 and my first car was a Mini with the A series engine, so I'm well versed in contact breaker timing, gaps and their foibles!  More fun to come!  Got to get the flywheel and clutch off next so I can check the sprocket and also clean up more bits.

[TuscanPhil]

1 hour ago, peatff said:

If it's got a few splits in it get some Tiger seal and coat it . I've done it with bike manifolds and got years out of them.

 

19 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Probably a good call, seal it up and get a new one on order. 

Yeah.....I think it's a bit too FUBAR'd for that!  I haven't the foggiest how the engine would even run at all with it in its current state!  Very 'old' and soft.  The bit stuck to the carb is very sticky so that will be fun cleaning it!

[peatff]

Put a wax candle moulded to size down the middle and Tiger seal round it to stick it back together then pull the candle out when it sets

[TuscanPhil]

2 hours ago, peatff said:

Put a wax candle moulded to size down the middle and Tiger seal round it to stick it back together then pull the candle out when it sets

Good advice! but I'm pretty sure it's too far gone for even that!  I don't need the use of the saw (yet) so I'll wait until the new part arrives from the States but I need to get the flywheel off first so I can check out the bits hiding behind that.  Any tips?  I've tried the 'shock' method (hitting reasonably hard with the other end of the shaft on a firm surface) but don't want to hit it too hard and break anything.  I have a 2 or 3 arm puller but the arms are too big to get behind the flywheel (it's more of a car bearing puller).

 

I've got the sprocket off and whilst it seems ok, I'll probably get a new one of those - I'm fairly sure it's one of these - 

OREGON RIM SPROCKET 3/8 7 TOOTH STANDARD 7 SPLINE 68210

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

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Genuine Oregon Rim Sprocket.