Mitox 4116 (OK I know your laughing)

[Silverhooker]

Had a little mittox just like that for 6-7 years, light firewood saw, was cheap as and ran great, even after I dropped it in the river (twice!). When it died my mate took it for spares. It owed me nothing.

It was great for snedding up as it’s very light. 
Paid around £90 for it new good little home owner saw.
 

[bmp01]

55 minutes ago, Ratman said:

oooohh bmp01 you animal you! ??

Naah, it's quite gentle,  honest. 

If you think of it like a sanding pad on a flat surface you can see the pressure is quite low compared with a digit (finger) pressing a small area of abrasive. Each sanding drum is bespoke to cylinder size so the curvature is matched as best as possible.

Of course there's a bit of operator involvement,  no point focusing on a pristine bit of the bore. Tend to use it like a honing tool and get cross hatch pattern, much like a new one.

 

 

[spudulike]

I usually dissolve thick transfer with chemicals and then abrade once it is oxidised and repeat until the transfer is gone. Thin transfer can just be abraded. There is a risk that you rub a cavity in the wall of the bore if you abrade too hard in one specific place, it may be a fraction of a micron deep but it can plummet compression through ring blow-by.

Just take a look at the damage and use what you have.

[AngrySquirrel]

3 hours ago, spudulike said:

Nope, sorry, Rush was a throwback from College days, hanging with the hippies!

Her voice is so clear it's considered Audio quality for reference when testing hifi

[cygnusnsf]

OK so gonna grab me some Harpic Blue and soak the cylinder then use some wet and dry with it to gently remove any transfer. I take it that rotational movement to remove any transfer much better than the up and down movement mimicking the piston movement?

I also have found one of the bolts holding the carb has a stripped thread so that might be a reason was running lean potentially.

Not sure how I could then rethread will have a look round to see if there is any ideas to fix that.

Thanks all for comments above.

[cygnusnsf]

18 hours ago, bmp01 said:

Spud - here you go chap, this is what a Mitox 4116 looks like ?

Dammed thing made my hand dirty when I dragged it out from where it was,  been there that long. 

And yes, it was broken and free and I got suckered into fixing it. Part seized, it didn't get any new bits, just the rough edges smoothing off - and that means I can't flog it as a runner really,  not worth the aggro. 

I have one for Spares if needed - Or if you like to sell as non runner ?

[bmp01]

32 minutes ago, cygnusnsf said:

OK so gonna grab me some Harpic Blue and soak the cylinder then use some wet and dry with it to gently remove any transfer. I take it that rotational movement to remove any transfer much better than the up and down movement mimicking the piston movement?

I also have found one of the bolts holding the carb has a stripped thread so that might be a reason was running lean potentially.

Not sure how I could then rethread will have a look round to see if there is any ideas to fix that.

Thanks all for comments above.

Use chemicals just on the aluminium deposit,  dont soak the whole dammed thing ! 

Chemicals will eat any aluminium they come into contact with.

And in case it needs saying, keep it off your hands and protect your eyes etc, nasty stuff...

Edited May 30, 2020 by bmp01

[cygnusnsf]

OK Cool got it!

 

[peatff]

I neutralise the acid with some baking soda then rinse thoroughly and use plenty of WD40 or some 2 stroke oil with the wet and dry as you rub the remaining transfer off.

[spudulike]

Helicoil the damaged thread, most workshops doing this sort of work should be able to helicoil M4, M5, M6, M10 and M14 threads - the last two are spark plug holes. Very strong repair if done correctly.