Slabs for sale

[Rough Hewn]

Milled some beech and oak for a client who now wants to sell some.

Pm me for details or phone

07376803384

Thanks

Saul

 

[Rough Hewn]

[Rough Hewn]

And some large oak
10' by 3-3.5' by 3"



There are more slabs than photos.
[emoji106]

[trigger_andy]

What condition would you describe these boards and how likely do you think they will remain as one board once dry?

[Rough Hewn]

What condition would you describe these boards and how likely do you think they will remain as one board once dry?

Condition? In what sense?
The beech was solid enough to be carried out of the woods for 100m
By two men.
The oak is 3" and solid.
As I didn't see any of the trees standing it's hard to know what kind of tension and compression forces were at play.
The heavily spalted beech with holes will be good for resin work.
Couldn't honestly say about 2-3 years from now.
But if they split it's waney edge with resin river tables.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[Rough Hewn]

This is another photo of the oak when I was milling it,
Notice the end is clean as it was trimmed.
Looks good to me.

[emoji106]

[trigger_andy]

19 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

Condition? In what sense?
The beech was solid enough to be carried out of the woods for 100m
By two men.
The oak is 3" and solid.
As I didn't see any of the trees standing it's hard to know what kind of tension and compression forces were at play.
The heavily spalted beech with holes will be good for resin work.
Couldn't honestly say about 2-3 years from now.
But if they split it's waney edge with resin river tables.

Im kinda just starting out Milling, well two years now. I have very limited experience with what will happen when Slabs start to dry. I thought the Oak would have maybe split down that dark line? Pith maybe? As I say Im still learning and just trying to figure things out. That later pic of the Oak sure does look solid.

 

I agree, the Beech would look great as a resin table.   How dry does the wood need to be for that? Not something Ive done yet but hopefully will one day.

[Rough Hewn]

Get loads of stickers cut, stack it high with a big off cut on top.[emoji106]
The only wood I've had split regularly is sweet chestnut.
But still useful stuff.
I haven't made a resin table yet, but I'm starting to think about it. [emoji106]

[ucoulddoit]

1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

Im kinda just starting out Milling, well two years now. I have very limited experience with what will happen when Slabs start to dry. I thought the Oak would have maybe split down that dark line? Pith maybe? As I say Im still learning and just trying to figure things out. That later pic of the Oak sure does look solid.

 

I agree, the Beech would look great as a resin table.   How dry does the wood need to be for that? Not something Ive done yet but hopefully will one day.

I found a lot of useful advice in the book 'The conversion and seasoning of wood' such as different thicknesses of stickers for different types of timber, sticker spacing for different thicknesses and types of timber, etc. Also, advice about avoiding drying defects such as surface checking, honey combing, etc. If you're aiming to sell the timber when seasoned to furniture makers it needs to be drying defect free to achieve a good price. I'd say that drying defects are different to natural defects which can make a piece of timber more desirable!

 

I've not made a resin table, but have used bronze resin plenty of times to fill smallish holes and defects. The timber needs to have a very low moisture content if used in a heated room and if you want to avoid timber movement which causes cracks/gaps around the resin. Rule of thumb for air drying is a year per inch, plus a year. But that's not dry enough to avoid movement in a heated environment. I only dry timber for my own use and aim for a final moisture content between 5 to 10%.

 

Andrew

[trigger_andy]

1 hour ago, ucoulddoit said:

I found a lot of useful advice in the book 'The conversion and seasoning of wood' such as different thicknesses of stickers for different types of timber, sticker spacing for different thicknesses and types of timber, etc. Also, advice about avoiding drying defects such as surface checking, honey combing, etc. If you're aiming to sell the timber when seasoned to furniture makers it needs to be drying defect free to achieve a good price. I'd say that drying defects are different to natural defects which can make a piece of timber more desirable!

 

I've not made a resin table, but have used bronze resin plenty of times to fill smallish holes and defects. The timber needs to have a very low moisture content if used in a heated room and if you want to avoid timber movement which causes cracks/gaps around the resin. Rule of thumb for air drying is a year per inch, plus a year. But that's not dry enough to avoid movement in a heated environment. I only dry timber for my own use and aim for a final moisture content between 5 to 10%.

 

Andrew

Awesome, thats great, thank you. Just ordered off of Amazon.