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Timber grab/crane


benedmonds
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012.jpg

 

this was a pretty sweet set up that the contractors had on one of the wildlife trusts jobs recently, good as it has a good visability into the trailer for when unloading :thumbup:

 

no good if you cant see the bits in the bottom of the trailer

 

 

also this sat quite a way back on the trailer, so it balanced well not like a straight grain trailer conversion which could put a lot of strain on the drawbar if not thought out properly, or are you thinking 3pl crane and grab with a extended drawbar on the trailer?

Edited by Charlieh
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i recently brought a 10 ton grain trailer with a 6.5m forestry crane on to go behind the mog. Drawbar has been lengthened so that when u turn tight the chipbox cant contact the crane in any way. operator stands on a platform behind the kingpost and can see down both sides of the trailer to load and into the trailer to unload.

Jas p Wilson did the original conversion to it

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david from on here still has the trailer mate, he has swapped the hiabs on it, but i think he would sell it on, then all you have to do is get it piped for a grab. You need to pick the right trailer then really beef it up for strength. the one i had was a wessex trailer which is really substantial then it had the body shortened then beefed up, some folk just extend the drawbar and bolt things on, not to clever imo

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Whats it going behind?

 

If its a mog you will need air brakes, grain trailers work ok, but you are starting with something designed for grain then batter it to death with a grab and timber..

 

Also trailers with sides are harder to load and unload lengths with a grab, tipping is fine but messy.

 

IMO you got to analise what you want to move with it..lenghts, rings, brash ?

 

Weight distribution, crane size, bolsters/sides etc etc.

 

There is no cheap fix (believe me)

 

Best set up trailer i have seen for surgery is Skyhucks..

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Whats it going behind?

 

Also trailers with sides are harder to load and unload lengths with a grab, tipping is fine but messy.

 

IMO you got to analise what you want to move with it..lenghts, rings, brash ?

.

 

It's to go behind the tractor. We already use a grain trailer which we load with the loader but a crane and grab is going to be more versatile. It's for arb work so rings and short lengths.

 

Skyhucks trailer or similar is what I'm after but I have little idea of how to go about it, or costs involved, hence my question..

 

Could we just get a crane of a truck, elongate the drawbar on our trailer, plonk the crane on and go to work?

 

If so what's the best size crane, does it need to be piped for the grab, can you add that to a non piped crane? is that worth it.... etc.. etc..

tractor.JPG.d509d46a9f58183f17e489cfd35bf5c4.JPG

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you need to re inforce the trailer big time, especially if you are putting on a hiab, they are heavy and can lift loads compared to a light timber loader. Pm david, he has mine sitting there with a different hiab already on, it has brand new tyres and is built for the job, the brakes need some tlc, and you can soon get someone to pipe the hiab for you.

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Its easier if going behind a tractor.

 

SWB is right about the weight of the crane.

 

There is a difference between a hiab type crane and a timber crane..

 

Lifters and loaders..

 

The lifter (hiab/atlas) are heavier and designed to lift loads- so you can use it for dismantling etc, but are slow for loading timber and dont always facilitate piping for grabs etc.

 

Loaders (foresrty cranes) are for loading timber- fast slewing, lighter weight etc. But they will not lift something and 'hold' it under there own, so you can use them for dismantling but its not as safe.

 

The problem with sticking a heavy crane on then beefing up the trailer etc and then loading it up with wood is that you will kill the tractor brakes, the trailer brakes will help, but they arent that great..

 

 

What was your trailer set up Stevie? Never saw that one !! You still got the shredder crane ?

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