Wood Preservative, for Carving.

[red gum]

Hi All

From Australia, been carving for a few years, just trial and error, and plenty of Fuel.

Have a lot of Hard woods here where i live, Tallow Wood, red iron bark, red gum, bloodwood, shee Oak, etc.

Only trouble is after completing my carvings, cracks appear. It seems ok if iam going to varnish, but if i need to

leave the wood natural, or stain, or even oil, it still seems to crack.

Any suggestions on types of Preservatives, names of, or any other Tips n tricks.

Much Appreciated.

Edited September 19, 2018 by red gum
one word left out

[billpierce]

Not really familiar with the to.ber your using, but certain woods split worse than others. Latch cedar and sequoia are very stable, oak can be bad especially if carved from the round.

I guess your climate will dry it out pretty fast as well.

After carving try and let it dry slow. Keep in shade, and in cool if possible. Oil can help slow the moisture drying out, but ultimately trapping moisture in to slow drying/reduce cracking, brings its own problems, black staining, mildews etc.

Some folk use decking oil, which usually contains antifunguscides etc. Personally I don't like using they chemicals, and not overly keen on the colour of alot of them

[se7enthdevil]

5 hours ago, red gum said:

Hi All

From Australia, been carving for a few years, just trial and error, and plenty of Fuel.

Have a lot of Hard woods here where i live, Tallow Wood, red iron bark, red gum, bloodwood, shee Oak, etc.

Only trouble is after completing my carvings, cracks appear. It seems ok if iam going to varnish, but if i need to

leave the wood natural, or stain, or even oil, it still seems to crack.

Any suggestions on types of Preservatives, names of, or any other Tips n tricks.

Much Appreciated.

as a wood turner i'd love to have some of those timbers to work with.

 

the species you have mentioned are highly likely to split anyway so it's probably futile you trying to stop it but you could try giving your carvins many coats of danish oil as this will slow down the drying process (presuming you are using wet wood) and limit some of the cracking.

 

 

you should start an export business for the timbers you have in australia as we'd love them this side of the planet.

[Rough Hewn]

A possible idea would be to quarter saw from forest grown, vertical trees.
Or air dry the whole log slowly for a decade before cutting? [emoji848]
Got any photos of the timber you're using?
[emoji106]

[red gum]

Thanks for reply's

Would be more than happy to send a Chunk of timber,

though i would to hate to think of the cost of Postage,

for example to get a Carving bar for UK to Here, will cost $115.00 AU

Here's some Photos, i fell all my trees with a Australian Bluey Osborne racing axe.

Photos:

1. Tallow Wood

2.Felled Tallow Wood

3.She Oak

4.Red Iron Bark.

5.Red Iron Bark

6.Red Iron Bark / Fish

7. Felled Red Gum. + Australian Blue cattle Dog

8. Blood Wood.

 

Edited September 20, 2018 by red gum
change word

[Steve Bullman]

Show us the axe then!

[red gum]

I bought a Tuatahi Axe a couple years ago $700 AU and it didn't feel right,

would swivel in my hands, and felt unsafe.

I  ordered another Osborne Axe in May this year and should have it by Christmas, touch wood,

these Axe's may not be made for to much longer.

If you go to his website, the Photo of Mike was from 30 years ago, so he really has mastered the Art.

 

Edited September 21, 2018 by red gum
Photo

[red gum]

[red gum]

Previous Photo) is same axe after 5 years felling countless trees,  this Photo, same Osbourne Axe at 4 weeks old, A dried she Oak, usually forbidden to cut into these with a standard racing Axe,  because they can chip the blade, but the bluey, got through, Quickly, and without losing its edge.