Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

Posted
21 minutes ago, briquette_seller said:

Thermostat removed.

Why was this removed? Thermostats  can both open the path to the radiator and simultaneously block the bypass used for quick warm up

Posted
3 minutes ago, spuddog0507 said:

 

have you tried it with out rad cap on ? and if you took cap off when hot is it pressurising the system ?

Yes it pressurized when removing the cap when hot.

 

Still runs hot without the cap on, and you can see the water circulating

Posted
4 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

Why was this removed? Thermostats  can both open the path to the radiator and simultaneously block the bypass used for quick warm up

Yes I've heard that before, so ordered a new thermostat. 

 

I removed it, hoping/thinking the engine would run cooler without it. It has made no difference 

Posted
2 minutes ago, briquette_seller said:

Yes I've heard that before, so ordered a new thermostat. 

 

I removed it, hoping/thinking the engine would run cooler without it. It has made no difference 

Then I suspect the radiator needs a more thorough clean especially if  it has had any radweld type gunk or a mixture of blue and pink antifreeze.

Posted
Just now, openspaceman said:

Then I suspect the radiator needs a more thorough clean especially if  it has had any radweld type gunk or a mixture of blue and pink antifreeze.

No radweld, but could have had a mix of antifreeze. 

 

I'll clean again, but the first time was pretty clean, not gunky at all.........

Posted

Pressurise the system manually using a tester, cold to start with, if pressure drops over a short period of time then your in to the obvious..... theres a leak, check visually first for any external signs i.e hoses, head gasket area, water pump gland, water temp sensor body, the usual etc.....
If no signs then you could be looking at an internal leak, possibly on inlet/exhaust side through a fractured head as husk king suggested earlier. If no pressure drop when cold then it would suggest that you have a internal fault once hot.
So run engine up to temperature, watch your exhaust for signs of grey/white smoke whilst doing this which would also suggest water/coolant loss, and repeat pressure check again?
But if you are having to get to this point then chances are your looking at fractured head or porous liners.
Did you see any pitting on top of block or fretting marks around top of cylinders near where fire ring sits on head gasket? Did you have head faced/skimmed and pressure tested whilst you were changing head gasket?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  •  

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.