Chainsaw keeps cutting out

[JamesNYorkshire]

47 minutes ago, peatff said:

The cutting out sounds like you need to adjust the L screw out a bit for more fuel and then adjust the tickover accordingly.

Have tried various different positions for both L and idle, will have another go tomorrow, problem is it’s a bit difficult to adjust properly when I can’t get it to idle normally (only “fast idle” when starting up).

From what I can see looking through the exhaust there does seem to be some deposits in the muffler so I’m going to see if I can sort that too.

 

James

[JamesNYorkshire]

40 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

Are all the clutch springs present?

Yes they were and have now put a new clutch in anyway (as well as needle bearing etc.) so I know it’s not clutch related.

[spudulike]

Just read back through the thread, it is a Husky 350....not a bad saw but can have issues. The impulse connector on the inlet manifold/boot tends to split or get squashed when being rebuilt by the inexperienced. Also, the saw can get air leaks where the cylinder mount meets the engineered plastic bottom end. The plastic tends to warp and cause leaks, you can usually tell when doing a leak down test.

[JamesNYorkshire]

24 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Just read back through the thread, it is a Husky 350....not a bad saw but can have issues. The impulse connector on the inlet manifold/boot tends to split or get squashed when being rebuilt by the inexperienced. Also, the saw can get air leaks where the cylinder mount meets the engineered plastic bottom end. The plastic tends to warp and cause leaks, you can usually tell when doing a leak down test.

Yes, and confusingly I’ve somehow ended up discussing the same thing on two threads... Is that sort of thing fixable? I think I’d need to take it to a dealer anyway if it’s something like that... Will try adjusting the H screw (after checking spark plug...) and a couple other bits I can do, if none of them work I’ll take it in.

Bit of a pain really as I only bought it as a cheap back up saw and it ran fine when I tried it out... (Only paid £80 for it so not too bad I suppose)

[spudulike]

I would just set the carb to around 1&1/8th turn out on each screw and adjust the idle to be normal without the chain spinning. If limiters are fitted then just turn the L screw fully out and leave the H screw as is. If this doesn't solve it, you should try the internal carb gauze strainer as it can get clagged up with woodchip.

If the diaphragms are OK and the strainer is OK, then it may be one of the issues I mentioned which will be the next step. Always difficult to find an issue without seeing the body!

[JamesNYorkshire]

Right, sounds like a good plan of action, will have a look at all that tomorrow, thank you for your help.

Unfortunately I’m a bit far from Hertfordshire!

 

Thanks again, 

James

[Stubby]

8 hours ago, JamesNYorkshire said:

Right, sounds like a good plan of action, will have a look at all that tomorrow, thank you for your help.

Unfortunately I’m a bit far from Hertfordshire!

 

Thanks again, 

James

Post . I posted my saws to Steve .

[JamesNYorkshire]

Right, have done as you said and turned L and H screws in as far as they would go (It seems the screws went in a lot further than I thought they did previously) then out 1 1/4 turns and it now idles great! So thank you very much!

It seems to run normally, accelerates well and returns to idle quickly with no significant smoke so should I leave it as it is or try and fine tune it? The (almost new) spark plug was completely black so it was obviously running pretty rich anyway (hadn’t adjusted the H at all until this point) Is it worth changing the plug to see how it looks after running for a bit?

 

Thanks, 

James

[JamesNYorkshire]

6 hours ago, Stubby said:

Post . I posted my saws to Steve .

Good point, seem to have sorted it now but will definitely consider it if I have any more problems ?

 

James

[spudulike]

You can tune the carb a bit more if you like but you need to have a good feel for it as you can really cock things up if you deviate from the normal settings - these are one turn each on both screws, the little bit more ensures correct starting, idle and flat out revs as a little lean can cause issues with poor starting (L screw) and seizure (H screw)

Just leave the plug as is, put an hour or two on the saw and see what colour it is - light to dark tan is fine, black means you will need to lean up the high screw a little but go VERY carefully as too lean will make the saw go pop.

Glad you sorted it, looks like I may know what I am up to after all