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200t


basilbrush
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Ok, I have just referb my old 200t total strip down and rebuild . The reason for this is it has developed a running fault, runs lumpy until you blip the throttle then at full revs runs fine come off the throttle and it bogs down, few more revs then its ok again. I found the crank case seals leaking so replaced these , the local stihl supplier set up the carb and it ran sweet every time I used it until it sat unused for about 2weeks. Yep started first time then same fault. It seems to get better after it has been running for about 20 mins ??

Can any one has any one had a similar fault ,or can some one suggest anything.

Thanks for reading .

Hi Basil,

 

If the saw has no air leaks (which you can check for with mityvac), then I'd put money on it being a carb problem.

 

The accelerator pump carbs, will invariably wear out causing leaks that give rise to just this type of fault. You can bodge the pump (I can help on this), or just stump up for a new carb (which I eventually did on mine). New carbs range from 20-90 quid....best off with an OEM, in my opinion. I just put a new carb on mine (an early one without the acc pump) and now have an absolutely fantastic 200t!

 

hope this helps

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Hi Basil,

 

If the saw has no air leaks (which you can check for with mityvac), then I'd put money on it being a carb problem.

 

The accelerator pump carbs, will invariably wear out causing leaks that give rise to just this type of fault. You can bodge the pump (I can help on this), or just stump up for a new carb (which I eventually did on mine). New carbs range from 20-90 quid....best off with an OEM, in my opinion. I just put a new carb on mine (an early one without the acc pump) and now have an absolutely fantastic 200t!

 

hope this helps

 

Go back a few posts .........He has fixed it . :001_smile:

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Hello,

Glad you got it sorted. Did your diagnosis include taking the old carb apart ? Accelerator piston scored and O ring undersize ?

 

No ideas about the life of new carb. Does that have a accel pump in it?

 

bmp01

 

Yes, I stripped the carb down and after wrestling with the removal of the accelerator piston it was scored. Don't know if the new carb has an accel pump just thought it was a direct replacement :biggrin:

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Those cheap AM carbs won't have the accel pump. It's more money to produce. The accel pump seems a bit overrated for the later problem which can be caused.

 

If the L-side of the carb is setup how the manual explains you should still get good throttle response and hot starting. If it was a decent cheap carb that is..... :001_cool:

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The 200t's I own earn me my living. I tried being a cheap skate & bought cheaper carbs, had the accelerator pump blanked off etc, but in basic terms the saws underperformed & I continued to have issues. Now I just rebuild the carb once then replace with an OEM one. They all work as they should & earn my my wages. Simple maths for me :)

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The 200t's I own earn me my living. I tried being a cheap skate & bought cheaper carbs, had the accelerator pump blanked off etc, but in basic terms the saws underperformed & I continued to have issues. Now I just rebuild the carb once then replace with an OEM one. They all work as they should & earn my my wages. Simple maths for me :)

I agree I bought a cheapy carb once (yes after blocking the accel pump channels with JB weld).

 

I couldn't tune it on the L-side right, it worked, but wasn't nice....so I forked out on a STIHL one, this is the one without the accelerator pump

 

1129-120-0650 /Zama C1Q-S32

 

and for me it worked a dream :)

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If you take a std Stihl carb and disable the accelerator pump, what's the difference between that and a Stihl carb that didn't have an accel pump in the first place? Was it anything obvious?

 

I can imagine more drillings into the carb port (close to the butterfly) fed from the low speed circuit. The jet for the low speed circuit may be a different size too but that's so small i don't know how you'd tell.

 

bmp01

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