Stihl MS361C crankcase alignment

[Daniël Bos]

In battery saws in means "comfort features"

 

Sent from my E5823 using Arbtalk mobile app

[Stubby]

I didn't include the cat because they use C for their battery saws, comfort or clean sound like possibilities.

 

Isnt "C" for auto tune type saws ?

[Daniël Bos]

Isnt "C" for auto tune type saws ?

 

no, that's M for M-tronic

 

C is for comfort, Stihl thinks things like AV springs, springy recoil handle etc are comfort features

[adw]

Its always a gamble fitting two odd halfs of crankcase, what normally happens is the crankcases are put together in the factory and the cylinder base is machined.

[Stubby]

Its always a gamble fitting two odd halfs of crankcase, what normally happens is the crankcases are put together in the factory and the cylinder base is machined.

 

Thought so .

[Dan91]

Thanks people, have advised the owner to take the complete crankcase back to a Stihl dealer to get an authorised mechanics opinion. Personally think they will advise the old half is changed for a new.

 

I don't even know if the saw is worth fixing if a new crankcase is required as parts etc will no doubt add up.

 

The owner doesn't want to use a OEM Stihl barrel and piston anyhow so maybe It's worth taking the gamble to see how long it lasts?

 

As mentioned previously I'm also concerned as to the crankshaft alignment in this "old vs new crankcase" there is a lot of drag when trying to rotate the crank by hand (flywheel side without flywheel attached, without any top end) can't imagine 1 new crank seal would cause that much resistance.

 

 

Trouble with starting a project that someone else has given up on!! Note the saw has been ran with the new crankcase half and replacement piston but it then appeared to catastrophically seize up. On strip down I found the piston was on backwards and one of the rings had been fitted or crept around to the exhaust port.

 

Love a head scratcher!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

[spudulike]

On the crank resistance, the seals do make a little difference, it changes the real silky smooth free flowing feel in to a slightly more spongy type feeling with slight resistance.

 

I guess the fellow has de stressed the bearings when he fitted the crank by tapping the end of each end of the crank?? Oh - and aligned it centrally in the crankcase void and not hard to one side?

[Stubby]

On the crank resistance, the seals do make a little difference, it changes the real silky smooth free flowing feel in to a slightly more spongy type feeling with slight resistance.

 

I guess the fellow has de stressed the bearings when he fitted the crank by tapping the end of each end of the crank?? Oh - and aligned it centrally in the crankcase void and not hard to one side?

 

If he put the piston in the wrong way round its very possible he has not done the above Steve ................

[Dan91]

I guess the fellow has de stressed the bearings when he fitted the crank by tapping the end of each end of the crank?? Oh - and aligned it centrally in the crankcase void and not hard to one side?

 

 

I'm unaware if any of the above process were carried out, at a guess I would say..... no. The last thing I want to do is spit the case again.

 

Any idea where the best place to buy semi decent after marker Piston/cylinder kits? I'm looking at chainsawpartsonline.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

[spudulike]

I guess the fellow has de stressed the bearings when he fitted the crank by tapping the end of each end of the crank?? Oh - and aligned it centrally in the crankcase void and not hard to one side?

 

 

I'm unaware if any of the above process were carried out, at a guess I would say..... no. The last thing I want to do is spit the case again.

 

Any idea where the best place to buy semi decent after marker Piston/cylinder kits? I'm looking at chainsawpartsonline.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

 

I think you are missing my point, when you fit the crank in to the cases, the crank is exerting an outward force on the bearings. All that needs to be done is to tap the end of each end of the crank with a hard hide/copper mallet and to do this until the crank is super smooth and the bearings have aligned correctly. No stripping of the engine again!

 

Failure to do this will end up in toasting of the bearings......that's about it!

 

The only aftermarket kit I like is Meteor but of all the Chinese stuff, Hyway seems about the best!