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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member, Raffle sponsor 2009
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: new zealand
Posts: 2,850
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splicing and breaking
Broke some gear today. 10mm OP. 8mm OP. Configured rope guide with vt setup below. Dyneema slings. Rope that was in the volcano for 7 months. evrything was super strong. 10mm OP 26kN. configured rg broke the sirius at 20kN and then retested the 8mm OP and it broke at 18kN. volc rope broke at 16kN.
was a fun day. climbeverything.
__________________
For all splicing and climbing related stuff (from trees to volcanos) drew@climbeverything.co.nz |
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#2 (permalink) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member, Raffle sponsor 2009
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: new zealand
Posts: 2,850
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Re: splicing and breaking
Gotta plug when and where you can!! Got some nice HD vids of the stuff breaking, when I get the time I'll put them up.
__________________
For all splicing and climbing related stuff (from trees to volcanos) drew@climbeverything.co.nz |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Site Moderator, Raffle Sponsor 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SW.
Posts: 5,512
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Re: splicing and breaking
Good stuff, is that OP your own splicing?
Look forward to the Vids. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member, Raffle sponsor 2009
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: new zealand
Posts: 2,850
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Re: splicing and breaking
yeah the OP is mine-well be breaking a heap more so we can prove consistency before selling it to anyone. I really like the stitched eyes but people are always requesting diff lengths and being in nz its a pain to get them quickly. I actually thought teh op would be a pain to splice but i found it to be relatively easy. The ART pulley fully stretched open before anything broke too, were lucky in auckland that theres a heap of testing stations around due to the marine industry. cheers guys
__________________
For all splicing and climbing related stuff (from trees to volcanos) drew@climbeverything.co.nz |
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#7 (permalink) |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member, Raffle sponsor 2009
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: new zealand
Posts: 2,850
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Re: splicing and breaking
no the small dyneema webbing melted through the sirius at 20kN. Were going to redo it with op8mm instead and/ or 10mm sirius, and also change the webbing to 6mm stitched globe. tbh when you see what happened to the gear, 20kN is of no concern and the hitch was right next to the pulley so we would never generate that amount of force (and survive) ina normal climbing situation. we put knots below the webbing prussic and vt because ata certain force they just started to slip. when i get time ill put upthe printouts from the test machine.
__________________
For all splicing and climbing related stuff (from trees to volcanos) drew@climbeverything.co.nz |
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#9 (permalink) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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