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splicing and breaking


DrewB
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Broke some gear today. 10mm OP. 8mm OP. Configured rope guide with vt setup below. Dyneema slings. Rope that was in the volcano for 7 months. evrything was super strong. 10mm OP 26kN. configured rg broke the sirius at 20kN and then retested the 8mm OP and it broke at 18kN. volc rope broke at 16kN.

was a fun day. climbeverything.

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yeah the OP is mine-well be breaking a heap more so we can prove consistency before selling it to anyone. I really like the stitched eyes but people are always requesting diff lengths and being in nz its a pain to get them quickly. I actually thought teh op would be a pain to splice but i found it to be relatively easy. The ART pulley fully stretched open before anything broke too, were lucky in auckland that theres a heap of testing stations around due to the marine industry. cheers guys

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no the small dyneema webbing melted through the sirius at 20kN. Were going to redo it with op8mm instead and/ or 10mm sirius, and also change the webbing to 6mm stitched globe. tbh when you see what happened to the gear, 20kN is of no concern and the hitch was right next to the pulley so we would never generate that amount of force (and survive) ina normal climbing situation. we put knots below the webbing prussic and vt because ata certain force they just started to slip. when i get time ill put upthe printouts from the test machine.

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yeah the OP is mine-well be breaking a heap more so we can prove consistency before selling it to anyone. I really like the stitched eyes but people are always requesting diff lengths and being in nz its a pain to get them quickly. I actually thought teh op would be a pain to splice but i found it to be relatively easy. The ART pulley fully stretched open before anything broke too, were lucky in auckland that theres a heap of testing stations around due to the marine industry. cheers guys

 

Is that all it takes to be able to sell spliced rope in NZ?

 

I have a hitch cord made of Armour Pruss that I spliced with very short burys, do you fancy break testing it for me when It's come to the end of it's climbing life?

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