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Tree Stumps


JosephD
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Hi people

 

Just a few questions i have about tree stumps and what the process is when they are poisend or just left to disappear on there own and what excatly happens when they are killed by chemicals such as round up

 

I know that round-up is applied to the stump straight after felling in order to prevent regrowth but can someone tell me what regrowth actually is? and why it happens?

 

question 2 - if there is no chemical is applied to the stump how long will the stump take to die whether regrowth appears or not? and how long it will take to disappear all together? i know it will obviously depend on the size of the tree so if its a big tree the stump will take longer to rot than a small stump but is it about the species of tree also? do certain species take last longer than others?

 

last question - what is the most common and most effective chemical to apply to tree stumps to kill it , i know of round - up but not seen any other chemicals used apart from petrol out of the chainsaw combi-can - does that work well?

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Regrowth is dependent on a tree's natural ability to regenerate from a coppice, most native species will regenerate from a ground level cut.

 

Best way to naturally decay a stump after being cut to ground level, cover with black polythene.

 

Just treat with SBK, or cover with black polythene

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JosephD, tree species will make a big difference. Stumps of decay-resistant walnut, at least the heartwood core, will last significantly longer than non-durable birch. Seasonality of cutting has been shown to affect the vigor of stump or root-system sprouts after felling the mature tree, at least in the US.

As to the "why"...the tree, as a total organism, wants to survive. If "wants" is inappropriate language, then the tree's metabolism is programmed to survive. Remove the stem and foliage and the root system or stump will try to rebuild. Of course, some species, including most conifers, don't readily sprout or don't sprout at all in nature. Some species' metabolism invests in setting a store of seed rather than bothering with sprouting. Here in the States, red maple is a prolific sprouter, but the closely related sugar maple sprouts reluctantly, if at all. So it's not just a question of the differentiation of large groups.

Sure, helping out the decay fungi with nitrogen should accelerate decay. I'm a bit dismayed at using petrol as herbicide, but perhaps I'm just naïve!

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First poison it to kill it. Glyphosate is ok if strong enough, but I use a purpose tree poison. Perhaps regulations don't allow that there. Until the tissue is killed the stored starch gives the tree a second chance to grow.

 

Then, this:

Decay can be accelerated by drilling holes and filling with high-N substances, such as urine.

 

except urine will dissipate, so use a high nitrogen fertilizer. Hopefully you can find 30:0:0 or more.

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Good catch on the teleology there Dr. S ;)

 

Yes urine dissipates through the wood; that's the idea. ?

It's a sustainable and free resource too--if you run out, drink another pint!

 

I'm also not keen on poisoning the earth--so something else can grow there.

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JosephD, tree species will make a big difference. Stumps of decay-resistant walnut, at least the heartwood core, will last significantly longer than non-durable birch. Seasonality of cutting has been shown to affect the vigor of stump or root-system sprouts after felling the mature tree, at least in the US.

As to the "why"...the tree, as a total organism, wants to survive. If "wants" is inappropriate language, then the tree's metabolism is programmed to survive. Remove the stem and foliage and the root system or stump will try to rebuild. Of course, some species, including most conifers, don't readily sprout or don't sprout at all in nature. Some species' metabolism invests in setting a store of seed rather than bothering with sprouting. Here in the States, red maple is a prolific sprouter, but the closely related sugar maple sprouts reluctantly, if at all. So it's not just a question of the differentiation of large groups.

Sure, helping out the decay fungi with nitrogen should accelerate decay. I'm a bit dismayed at using petrol as herbicide, but perhaps I'm just naïve!

A lovely detailed interpretation , a gifted explanation, i wish i was able to be so eloquent. :thumbup1:

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There is always the 'mechanical option'; use a stump grinder and/or a decent mattock. I have dug out many stumps using both methods. No poisoning involved and if you dig deep enough you can replant straight after.

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There is always the 'mechanical option'; use a stump grinder and/or a decent mattock. I have dug out many stumps using both methods. No poisoning involved and if you dig deep enough you can replant straight after.

 

If you are going down this route, leave the stump at about 4 feet high for a bit of leverage, :thumbup1:

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There is always the 'mechanical option'; use a stump grinder and/or a decent mattock. I have dug out many stumps using both methods. No poisoning involved and if you dig deep enough you can replant straight after.

 

same here usually dig out with the digger and ripper tooth

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