Ollie_M
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Everything posted by Ollie_M
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i dont do arb work but dad a car mechanic, im an agricultural mechanic. £150 on a pair of either laceup or dealer caterpillar safety boots and we usually change em after two years as by then the inner soles have worn down to the metal safety plates on the heal so not as comfy for all day wearing - work pays for replacements. however the soles are perfectly fine and generally all in decent shape other than fabric/leather loss over the steel toe. i personally see no need to spend anymore money or change. the only reason to not get some would be if you wanted high top laceups for a bit more ankle support...
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best thing i done was put a saw back together without tightening down the spark plug, was awfully confused when i went to start it and it suddenly had no compression.... took far longer than i'd like to admit for me to check the plug was tight and figure out what id done
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what do people recommend for a splitting axe? or possibly a cheap splitter, have a tractor so could go hydraulic if anyone knows of any cheap ones that work? currently been sectioning rounds up with saw then splitting using an old 4lb elwell felling axe - done the job but always kind of wished for a nice splitting axe looking forward to suggestions
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not a proffesional but im assuming your using a quality oil? amsoil, motorex, motul etc
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fill the tank right up then try run it on its side straight away, if it runs then then its the pickup body not falling to the bottom
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talking to myself here but clutch side crank seals backordered everywhere 🙄 got them on order from ls engineers hopefully doesnt take too long
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Clutch side seal out no problem, drilled 2 2mm holes and started to screw in, pliers under the head of the screw 2 hits on the handle end of pliers for each screw and it popped out. Happy days although don’t think the rubber part is supposed to be separate 🤣 flywheel side I’m not sure what to do really, no space to get a screw in really so not very sure what to do? edit: well after some digging I found a screw small enough, and it popped straight out 👍
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What’d be your recommended way to pierce it and lever it out? I was thinking a fairly stout 90 degree pick through a drilled hole but without knowing how much space there is to play with behind metal it’s not something I’m going to try in a hurry oh and fair play on the diagnosis!
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Actually bought this and finally got round to pressure testing, blocked it all and couldn’t get saw to hold any pressure whatsoever (yes did confirm tool was holding pressure and my adapters were) in the end I put my air compressor on it and very quickly came to conclusion clutch side crank seal is shot to bits. oh I can also turn the saw over by hand on just the flywheel with everything blocked off - can hear the air being pushed out the seals just need to get some new seals ordered and figure out how to get old seals out.
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Impulse line and intake boot checked all ok, cylinder is tight, will give it a good clean and check for physical cracks as I know it’s had hard use. It’s an old saw that sat for a good 10 years so I feel crank seals are a good possibility, for an air leak this bad the seals would be visibly buggered I would’ve thought? Don’t really want to spend out for a mityvac for how often I’ll use it but if I can’t visually find this air leak I may just have to get it.
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idle screw is adjusted so theres very little gap, i forgot to say which might be quite key is that if i choke it once it starts it will idle at a somewhat normal speed - something i find real weird as it obviously restricts air flow significantly but i dont get what it does differently to the throttle valve
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Carb is at factory settings. I can suck fuel up through the line no problem, doesnt seem cracked. Don’t have the kit to do a crankcase pressure test, is there a kit someone would recommend I buy?
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On choke it’ll take about 10 pulls before it pops, choke off it’ll then start and instantly take off to what sounds like about 10,000 rpm or definitely up there. I’ve cleaned the carb through with carb cleaner, split the rear handle off and checked the pulse line and intake boot neither are split which rules out air leak I think? The only thing I find weird is when I take the fuel line off the carb you don’t get that little squirt of petrol coming out you would normally get. So my only idea is to get a carb rebuild and see if that helps. any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated
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cheers for the suggestions guys, not really fussed on what wood it is or the quality so long as its not rotten and at a fair price. will have a phone around see who i can get into contact with. only reason for not wanting an artic load is that theres no room to swing into our driveway off the single track road, used to be fine as my family owned the farm that we built our house next to but with it being in the proccess of being sold currently its unlikely i'd have time to get a load dropped in the yard and moved. most likely will register as a tip site aswell as have looked and no one near me wants anything other than free woodchips.
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had a fire place as only source of heat in the house for going on 20 years, then went to heating oil and the stove didnt get used, getting a new stove put in and am looking for recently felled lengths for sale as thats what we used to buy, completely unproccesed trunks and had them delivered on a rigid lorry, normally a 10 ton drop off but i cant seem to find anyone that offers such a delivery let alone someone who will deliver to south glos/wiltshire. just wondering if anyone knows of anyone that i might be able to get an order off of?
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my suggestion would be fill with aspen as can help clear gunk out and leave on as high of an idle as it will run for a good 30 mins or longer, just try and get some fuel flowing through it, done this with a freinds ms181 i had borrowed that had been sat for around 2 years, wouldnt rev up, hard to start etc, left to idle once started and over the course of probably 45 mins i managed to get it to pick up rpm when throttle blipped, h needle right out it was very lean and clearly gunked up but once again cleared through with time. should've had a carb rebuild but mate didnt want to spend the tenner and worked out fine in the end and runs lovely now
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middle ground firewood tree (growth rate vs burn quality)
Ollie_M replied to Ollie_M's topic in Firewood forum
i like to have a variety of firewood, no real specific reason, also the more diverse i can make the woodland the better but may take some willow cuttings and put around aswell -
middle ground firewood tree (growth rate vs burn quality)
Ollie_M replied to Ollie_M's topic in Firewood forum
cheers for all the replies guys, am thinking along the lines of some eucalyptus (nitens and gunnii), silver birch and some leyllandii to go in early next year but keep the ideas coming! -
just looking for a bit of a discussion/suggestions for some good trees to plant for firewood with a longer cycle that will produce some decent logs, woodland i own has lots of hazel/willow growing throughout so not really interested in trees best suited to src. was thinking poplar due to good growth rate into a single large trunk but have heard its not very good firewood but not sure. honestly just looking for suggestions, fairly wet ground through winter due to a decent sized stream a couple feet below where i would plant.
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at one point in time my 365xt had its idle end up set far too high at 3500 and after a while a full throttle it wouldnt settle down below 5k for a fair few seconds even with throttle fully closed
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any specific 3 leg youd suggest?
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just do a timing advance whilst your at it, or is that something you cant do with the new autotunes
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No idea on how these saws specifically are setup but on an 038 it is literally just a piece of fuel hose routed from the top left hand side of the tank out to the gap between handle and crankcase, no flow restriction which is fine as it isn’t being tilted onto that side due to no full wrap and with the saw running there’s enough suction. could always put a standard tank vent for a dirtbike/2 stroke rc car etc on
