Shaffick

Got it running now. Runs great on idle and when throttle is applied. I cleaned a breather pipe and this some how sorted it out. As for oem parts, the piston, cylinder and coil are genuine. The crank and carburettor are after market. An original crank is £200. Hopefully it runs now. May put the original carburettor on but get it pressure tested as previously mentioned.

I managed to get the saw started on idle, but when revs were applied and released it cut out and the fuel was leaking out of the air filter housing.

Hi again. No, there's no priming bulb. I'm starting to think it might be the breather pipe. Got my head baffled. I've checked the metering and needle valve on both carburettors and they both seem fine and free from any wear. The adjustment seems fine also. I've eliminated any problem with the compression and ignition. This is definitely a fuel/air problem.

Yes, the carburettor is a cheap copy. But surely the cheap copy shouldn't be leaking fuel aswell?

I done a few checks in regards to what people have posted and it's not a sheared flywheel key as posted previously. I ordered a new ignition coil and aftermarket carburettor. This was simply for trial and error. I previously didn't mention that there was fuel leaking from the air filter housing (the air filters have been removed). I fitted the new coil and new carburettor. I changed the fuel pipe which leads to the the fuel filter in the tank as well as the fuel filter. Filled up with fresh fuel and it started for about a few seconds. There was still fuel coming out of the air filter. I looked at a few yo*t@be videos and seen a few comments about the metering valve and needle valve. Most of the comments mentioned that the new valves may not be as good as the original valves (bit baffled by this) so I decided to have a look at the original carburettor and I changed the new valves with the original ones. I couldn't see any difference. I refitted the old carburettor and now the saw starts but only with throttle applied. Still leaks fuel from the air filter. Could anyone advise on what to do next please?.

Yes definitely de-stressed the bearings as the workshop manual states. Thanks.

Thanks for that.

Hi there. Why would it score up after a rebuild?.

That maybe the case but the saw started but now it doesn't. I'll check out the flywheel key, as mentioned previously.

Ok thanks. I'll check it out. I assume by what you said, if this is the case, the flywheel is spinning on the shaft freely when pulling to start the engine?

Hi all, I have a Stihl TS400 saw which required a new crankshaft, cylinder and piston. I also fitted a new spark plug and refurbished the carburettor. I rebuilt the saw and when I attempted to start it, it fired up for about 30 seconds and then died. Now it won't even start. It doesn't even sound like it will start now. Any ideas or advice on what it could be please?. Thanks.

I wish

God bless you sir. No need to apologise for anything. It's a forum and everyone is entitled to their opinion. Take care.

I've added rubber washers in between the handle and body. It seems to reduce the vibration down a little.

Hi again. I think it's you that is misunderstood. Firstly, I'm not trying to be a trader. I have a day job. I merely see an opportunity and take advantage of it. In this case a cheap chainsaw. Secondly, In regards to the mechanics and integrity of the fixings, I'm fully aware of that but I've never really encountered any persistent problems with these saws. Lastly this forum is open to anyone regardless of what their chainsaw status is. You don't need to own a Husqvarna or Stihl to post on here. You seem to take it personally in regards to what I do with these saws. I just simply enjoy a project. I've fixed things from lawn mowers, circular saws and cars. Not really interested in making a buck as it's just beer money to me. You need to remember it was a Mr Dempsey that tried to be clever. My advice to you is to please do not take chainsaws too seriously. They all cut wood at the end of the day. Take care.