Craigb
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Everything posted by Craigb
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It did. I must have cocked it up. It was absolutely pissing out of the bushing not the seal. But the seal looked prolapsed. I did it without the o ring and smeared the crank with hylomar. I’ve ordered an o ring. I put the seal in the bushing and then knocked the seal in flush. I bollocksed it then I must have.
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Crank side seal gone.
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I might drop the cylinder later but I want to sort the problem out first.
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Put it back together and now it won’t pressurize. Lathered it leak detector but no bubbles. Sounds like it’s coming from the impulse line area but could be under the carb tray on the case gasket. Back to bits.
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20 thou. I reckon the cylinder I tried to get the scoring out of is knackered.
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Proper walbro carb on. The only problem now is a poor idle. Cuts fine but bogs a bit in the cut. Also the saw is very easy to pull over. I’ve capped off the decomp. Pressure and vac is good. Is the bogging in the cut and a poor idle symptoms of bad compression?
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Thank you very much to everyone that has contributed to this thread.
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Touch wood, the saw runs. A different carb that was billed as a copy of a walbro hd12 b arrived today. It was unfortunately another c3m. But the saw runs and idles. They are a pig to tune and this one was loading the saw up with too much fuel on 1 1/2 turns L. One turn got it running and sounding good. I will be seeking a proper walbro when I can get my mits on one.
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It unfortunately is another 365 c3m. I’ll strip the thing and see if anything is blocked. The proper 372 walbro is out of stock.
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New as in brand new, aftermarket but not branded. The fuel line is brand new and so is the filter. I’ll pull the top off it and check the arm is at the correct height.
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More fun and games. I got a new carb but it is a spurious one. It holds pressure and nothing seems a miss. Saw fires and almost runs with choke but then runs two fast on the next pull and dies. Opening the throttle makes it instantly die. Different symptoms but ultimately the same outcome, a saw that doesn’t run. Altering the L jet from shut to four turns open and the usual 1 1/2 turns yelds the same result.
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Tank vents fine. The saw it’s self is solid apart from the previously mentioned issues. Out in the rain for a good half hour adjusting the carb and the same results.
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And if that is the case does anyone have a carb they are selling? L and s are out of stock and I know nothing about after market carbs.
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So, she does indeed run but slowly dies at idle. Bouts of sputtering until it stops. It also stops dead after a boot full of throttle. I’ve had the L at everything from one turn to two turns out and it does last longer at idle in a lean position. The carb pressure test slowly dropped off and I put that down to a dry gasket. The carb was rebuilt as per the instructions from spud, metering lever level gaskets and diaphragms in correct order. We did deduce this carb wasn’t actually THE carb for the saw. Do I need a proper carb or am I missing something else?
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It’s a good feeling taking a saw to bits that doesn’t run and putting it back together and hey presto.
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It fired up on the 3 pull. It runs but needs a tune. I got it to run but due to the time didn’t do anything else.
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tried two Ngk plugs. The one it came with and a new one.
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I pulled the fly wheel when I did the vac pressure test. It looks fine. The gap is good and the prongs sticking out of the coil look good. It sparks as I’ve done a pull the cord with the plug on the cylinder test. Bizarre it didn’t start to begin with.
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that’s what my first incling was when I got it and tried to start it.
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You still think it’s the coil?
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I’ll mix it 25 to 1 just for you.
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So the carb kit will be with me tomorrow. The compression must be good now as it is a right pig to pull over. Oiler back together with the bladed worm driver. So fingers crossed it’ll fire tomorrow evening.
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not ideal but will do for now?
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Is this the right carb? L and s say it should be a walbro. Is that c2m or c3m? I can’t decide.
