Baldbloke

More for building/roof work rather than attempting to work a saw at height[emoji3]. See you guys use similar kit for arb work so would be interested in a heads up on what to check before handing out the cash. Cheers!

As a near sixty year old who doesn’t have to work by the ton nowadays I don’t need something that has the highest spec. However, I can certainly understand the preference for the newer saws but personally prefer the simplicity and reliability over years of use of the marginally lower performing older professional saws. A damn sight easier to rebuild too.[emoji1303]

..... and too hot. Saws run hot enough already without recently leaning them off further for environmental reasons. I’ve recently picked up a good secondhand MS260 and will be looking for a rebuildable and fully adjustable big saw when cash allows. I’m not keen on anything modern that unnecessarily complicates an outdoor tool[emoji3]

30 years ago we used to advise not fuelling 2T race bikes with an overly heavy oil premix. Owners thought they were coddling their engines by adding a drop more oil but it actually seemed to make the top ends run too lean.

Even with some certification?

Done that too[emoji3]

Shaving is going to be tricky for a while.......

Because it will be a lot easier cutting/measuring and replacing each section on site I’m still wanting to give it a go at making up sections without going to the expense of hiring in equipment. I have a part time job so don’t want hired equipment lying idle. Which mill should I buy and will my Husky 365 be up for the job?

I believe the proposed dimensions of the Elm will be adequate. This especially when you look at the alternative option of wide spacing and the thinness of modern prefabricated softwood trusses.

Hi Andrew, Good point about the balance between replacing all the suspect timbers with new softwood trusses against repairing the damaged sections. The steading is not listed. However, I’d still like to retain as much of its rustic look as possible and think that an over engineered look would detract from the buildings character. As a repair I am also hoping not to have to involve the Council or planning permissions. I really cannot abide these people. I was surprised by how sound the beams were where they are embedded within the granite stonework. Presumably because the lime mortar is still good and it can breathe.

Best guess is ash as has already been said. Even burns ok without proper seasoning/drying. Calorific value much better/excellent if dried[emoji1303] The unprepared mans winter fuel of choice Cedar is a really hot burn as someone suggested. Must be the oils within it

And ventilation [emoji23]

Trusses don’t sit on a wallplate but are built into the top of the wall. Some of it is needing replacement sooner rather than later[emoji3]

Some of the woodland

I didn’t know woodworm loves Elm, but would be treating it anyway. Thanks for the heads up! I will post pictures but it may be later this summer as I have the house to re harl and to redo the driveway

Where are you are based Graham?

This Elm appears pretty sound. The maul is sitting in a lump of Elm which has had some serious abuse over the last month

Hi Graham, That’s good of you! Extraction is tricky and time consuming as my wood is on a hill and it’s not clearfell. My steading roof is hipped and the ends of the trusses do not sit on a wallplate but are built into the wall-and so probably too complicated to manufacture off site. I’m envisaging a lot of Acrojacks and piecemeal replacement. Here is some of the same wood. It appears 100% sound. The existing trusses are largely made up of trunks split in half. I’m hoping to emulate that for the replacements.

Sorry, what is graded?

Dutch Elm disease. I’ve cut about 90 cubes of this Elm already as firewood. The only suspect areas I have seen so far have been at some of the larger butts for up to a couple of foot from the base where some of the butts are pumped. The smaller trees don’t appear to have this rot in the centre of the trunk at their bases. It was really the weight issue for handling as these trusses would be replacing the originals made from half trunks of softwood. The wood appears very elastic and strong with no apparent boring or rot. The trees that are completely dead are without bark and very hard. They are still standing, mostly as single straight trunks up to 60/70 foot high. I’ll just have to be careful in dropping them as they can break on hitting the ground. The best way appears to be to intentionally hang them up and then drag them off gently from the butt so they don’t hit the ground so hard. I’ll try and get down to the wood to post some pictures

Just over 40 miles to Dunfail. May just use that idea and run the trunks to a more local sawmill

I'll have to look into that, but think that service /hire option might not easily be found up here

Hi People, Milling would be a new venture for me as firewood and logging has been my main thing until now. I have access to standing dead elm which I'm hoping I will be able to use for trusses for a small steading (traditional Scottish farm building). The appeal in using the Elm is that I'm hoping it will need little or no drying as it seems (away from the butt) to be at around a 15% moisture content on dropping. I'd like to replicate the size and style of the existing trusses that need replaced. These are a maximum of 14' with a cross section in the region of 8" X 5". The quality of the finish does not have to be that great as long as the integrity of the wood remains sound. My questions are: Is Elm a suitable (if heavy) wood for trusses? I do appreciate that some nails may have a hard time going into this wood. Am I being unrealistic thinking that buying one of the cheaper mills and using one of my straight aluminium ladders, that I could do a run of perhaps 60 trusses? If so, which mill would you recommend, as this may be a one off job, and price is a consideration? Most of the elm I'd hope to use are not that big in diameter, but are straight as they have grown in a crowded wood. Would my largest saw (a 70cc 365 Husky) with say a 20" bar be up to the job, or do I need to lay out the cash for something bigger such as a second hand MS660? Many of the trunk lengths appear (to novice me) as ideal as they run at 8/10" diameter, so I'm hoping could be cut straight down the middle for two usable lengths. Cheers!