outinthewood

Using the thinnest cutting disc you have, I use a dremel, put a slice at the back of the bar slot at the tail of the bar. It can have a fair bit of tension so mind your eyes as it can break a small disc

I've been using Tsu bars for a long time and first thing I do is cut the tail of the bar to release all the tension or on a daily used bar it will crack. So now the tension is gone you should be able to use as suggested by others get it back to pretty true ? Although the way Tsu and Sugi bars are tempered and finished I would't bet on it

No I don't have the roller re set which you could buy from Stihl as a dealer part years ago and as I said if you are stuck or for just brashing a bigger gauge will get you out of trouble. I saw the set in a dealer friends workshop and was told it was of little use ?

Nothing wrong with the item described by OP but as Steve B points out maybe not a great file ... I have yet to meet a human with a eye good enough to give the correct angle with just a flat file on a worn bar, however an old method was to use flat file with two bits of lets say 2"by1" which would show up any real bad left or right inclination. So draw the file supported on said 2x1s with thumbs back towards you and pretty good results. Not so mad using angle grinder with flap wheel with very gentle force. As for the "don't bother since the rails are splayed", if you are really stuck I have for years put a .063 chain in badly worn .058 bar for the likes of brashing and even felling

Been running a 28" on 357 (modified) with .325 and a very effective setup, also run 20" on 70cc saws 9 tooth rim and it's a nice set up, smooth and less power to run so whats not to like ?

I get a fair amount of contact via my social on this subject ( don't I JD lol) and you've already got some good feedback. The rate is determined by what the "customers" are prepared to pay so if they are using some goon that turns up late with an even worse work ethic and the bare min kit they will still want you at the same price for a far better attitude. You can be very busy but the phrase "busy fool " is very common in forestry, being out 5/6 days a week does not equal good money ! I'm saying JD is correct less than 250 is not on as lets face it you can wipe out a bit of gear in a heart beat and you still have to comply the next day ! Don't forget you have to keep up to date 1st aid etc and it's not cheap. I insist on "them" paying for accom and will not do sharing room etc, you are not on holiday but nor are you second rate ! On gear, yes on the cheap jack and I find Husqvarna have a better cross over of parts between saws than Stihl but that a individual thing and your fixing ability ? Buy the best you can. You don't have to have a big double cab to get to work but a small 4x4 could be the difference from walking a good distance to site or getting up on a grass bank close to site saving a lot of grunt with gear to site.

Go on line and you will find 9 tooth rims that will fit the large drum as per 372. Have never seen an 8 tooth lge rim and would suspect it would not have enough "meat" to last . AS for a 372 running it, if the saw is in good order and you can put an edge on the chain it will be fine. I run that combination a lot in hard and soft woods with no problem. I would add a good quality chain of course !

Tillotson still are still producing carbs and kits. Based in Tralee and look them up on line, very helpful. The last time I spoke to them it was a father and son team that were the main guys for chainsaw carbs.

Yes the front 661 AV spring and buffer is a direct replacement although the buffer is a squeeze and a little silicon spray oil helps get it seated

I like threads like this as its a real open question depending on what you cut, how you cut and how much you cut with a "full size" saw . By that I mean do you cut with a 60cc most of the week and the 500 comes out a couple of times a week ? First of all I have to say without fear of contradiction the 500 is the only saw to have so many after market "bits" ! My own 500 is now over 3 years old and as stock saw I was happy with it but was it the silver bullet of saws ? I did find due to the high tick over it was happier being flat out or if you tickled the throttle its was a bit awkward. for an 80cc saw I didn't think it was that bad on fuel and yes the AV was pretty soft and of course the air filter appeared to be doing a good job as a hoover ! So I had it ported by Hotsaws101 and I had the response I wanted at the same time it was given to Maxi Flow as the test bed for the filter system we now see on 100s of 500i's Would get another ? To spend a heap of money only to replace the air filter at the very least I don't know I suspect if I could only buy a Stihl then a ported 400 would be my choice. On the AV for the massive sum of 9.50 euros a front av spring and buffer from a 661 transforms the saw

Having both the 585 and 592 and put a good amount of time on them, just take the spark screen out and get on with it. The exhaust which is the same on both saws is just an empty can with no baffles and a good sized outlet. However it's your saw so do as you wish but those stainless exhausts are a bit on the thin side for messing with. The guy I use for most of my port work was part of the factory test team and in his opinion there is very little to be gained doing anything with the 592. High praise indeed, as for the 585 I found and from speaking to other users they tend to come out set fairly rich.

Glad to see you like the belt/disc sander I put you onto, just the job for bars but I find the rough flap discs on angle grinder better for wedges.

Think I'll throw a little hand grenade in here. I hardly think HMRC are as we speak tracking down IP location of anyone who has talked about taking cash and not declaring it here as a screen name is not a big deal to those guys.... What I will say is if we were discussing nurses, doctors etc pay and where does that come from ? it's a poor excuse " yeah a bit of cash will be fine" the money has to come from somewhere ? I have a good accountant who I trust gets me the best "deal" which gives me the right to whinge if I don't get my public services. Those of you who do not play the game makes the "game" harder and have no right to complain ? Should have said of course that as already mentioned paying in cash with the correct paper trail is 100%

Interesting, I've been running 20" 3/8 for a long time on a 560 in fact a couple and yet to blow one up. A 560 will run that combo just fine as long as you can run a sharp chain and not expect 70cc performance. The only problem I had in the early days was the conversion clutch drum for large 3/8 rim would fall apart but using the small diameter 3/8 rim not a problem.

Was that my 572 on the Motul Mark ? I read these posts about mix v Aspen etc with interest. As noted the Aspen or the Husqvarna blend is without doubt a clean fuel. When Aspen was first around I was given a ltr and I tried it in a strimmer and my feelings - it was to "clean" which is shown in the picture from Mark of the 572 bottom end. Some time ago on this forum I asked the member AspenUK, after he declared that the oil in Aspen was the finest around that exceeded every other oil , what oil standards it exceeded and I was given some rubbish about commercial sensitivity ... I wasn't asking for the details of the mix just a idea of why it was so far ahead of other oils ? on looking it seemed to be no more advanced than any other high quality oil. I've been using Motul 800 for several years and get around 5 years out of a highly modified saw which I don't think is bad on a work saw doing 5 days a week.